Sunday, November 27, 2011

Friday November 25, 2011 @ Great Barrington. MA

Lingering snow melt in the Caroga Lake region and complete snow cover all points north forced us to head south for some climbing.  It turned out to be a beautiful, seasonably warm autumn day in the woods with a sizeable crew of climbers.  Lots of psych and lots of sending!

Media Update:






D. Pinto on "Scary Mantello"


Mitch Hoffman on "The Crystal Problem"


"The Green Goddess"


"The Green Goddess"


Banta on "The Green Goddess"


Murph styling a nice looking V8 Arete

Sunday November 20, 2011 @ Snowy Mtn.

Media Update from last Sunday....

R. Pooler has been trying HARD lately, good to witness and inspiring to say the least.  Good on ya' Mate.  Also, Banta got to write off a classic line with the send of "Coitus"!




Monday, November 21, 2011

Weekend Update...Part One

First I'd like to preface what transpired just before this past weekend...

Banta and I headed into Nine Corners Lake on Thursday night for what has become our weekly night session, i'm talking at least one night session a week after work to clear the mind and crush some boulders in the perfect fall conditions.  We have been making it a point to get out as much as possible since the last snow event back in October and this month we have been on a mission with over 12 outdoor climbing sessions while holding down 50+ hour work weeks!

The evening was prime, the temps wer perfect, and we both had select projects in mind.  After warming up and feeling extra strong and confident, it was only a matter of time before we both sent the climbs we were focused on...

And then this happened.

Nick Stoner Boulder Covered in Snow...damn
Over two inches of snow within an hour.  The night session was over, our projects remained projects...only temporarily we hope!

So with the Caroga Lake region covered by nearly 6" of snow on Friday morning, I knew that it would be out of the question on Saturday when Nyle and Murph were heading up from New Paltz.  They were psyched to check out the new cliff/boulder but quickly had to change plans so some actual climbing could occur and the day wasn't totally lost.

We rendevouzed around 11:00 am and headed north to a place I hadn't been back to since late June.  Conditions were much better as we travelled further from the microclimate know as Caroga Lake and when we finally arrived in Pottersville, the psych level was really high.  We ended up having a sick session, full of repeats, first ascents, explorations, and childish dares and games.  Good on ya' mates, looking forward to this coming weekend...BRING THE RUCKUS!

Media Update:




 Both of these aretes saw their 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ascents respectively...we also added three more lines on the back side of this boulder putting the total established climbs on the first boulder you encounter at Hogwart's at 8 boulder problems (ranging from V0-V7 with an elusive V double-digit sit start to the left arete)


Squibs sit start and the line to the left of it both saw repeats from the New Paltz boys and Jobi crushed Squibs as well.  Murph began working some insane line out of Squibs to the right arete..better have strong shoulders to try these moves...Damn Kid!


The features on the Sorcerors Stone boulder are something to marvel at for sure...nice piece of rock


The guys crushed on this line as well and added a classic V7ish dihedral climb on the back side of this boulder at the tallest section of the rock.  Good vision guys!

And some Videos Please...





Monday, November 14, 2011

The Steepest Rock in Caroga Lake???

Rodney Manning (AKA "Super Human Strength) has only been home from Maryland for a few days and in that short time frame, he has managed to unearth the steepest piece of rock with holds that I have ever seen in Caroga Lake!  This impressive outcrop stands over 25 feet tall, is 60 degrees overhanging out the center of the cave/roof and 20 feet deep and has two distinct lines that come directly out the sheer overhang...not to mention the overhanging aretes on each side of the cave and the numerous potential on the short cliffbands that encompass both sides of it.  Did I also mention that it's on state land and only 1/4 mile from the Prison Boulder, the Pinnacle Pull-off, and the Green Lake Boulder set?

Damn son, is this for real?  Let's get busy fellas, 'old man winter is knocking on the door!

MEdia Update:





Sunday, November 13, 2011

Nick Stoner Problems @ Nine Corners Lake

After walking past the "Nick Stoner" boulder problem for years, not knowing how to do the moves and writing it off as an impossible rock climb, I am confident now that I can actually do this rock climb!

Last year, D. Buzzelli put up a variation from the start of Nick Stoner that climbs the lower crux of the original Tommy Durant boulder problem then traverses 20' to the left arete of the Nick Stoner boulder. Since the first ascent by Buzz, the climb ("Bi-polor") sat without a second ascent but a comfortable V8 was given to the variation.

In recent weeks, D.B. was at it again on the Nick Stoner boulder eyeing up yet another variation for Tommy Durant's "Nick Stoner". The most recent plumb line starts the same as the original nick Stoner but once in the seam that traverses left as "Bi-polar", it climbs directly up the 20' face using small crimps and sidepulls to a highball sloping lip topout. In the past week, Buzz and I have both falllen numerous times at the lip. This past saturday on my second attempt of the day; in prime fall climbing conditions, I finally stuck the lip and toppped out on what may be my most difficulty first ascent to date...so psyched! This climb is tentatively know as "The Legend of D.B." to pay homeage to my pal D. Buzzelli who spied the line and began the beta/cleaning efforts.

Keeping the positive vibe's going and riding on my send high, I wanted to try the V8 traverse for the first time since I had the start beta dialed from projecting "The Legend of D.B.". I was really psyched and confident moving through the lower crux. Once in the seam on the traverse, my body took over and before I knew it I was on top of "Bi-polar" for a successful flash attempt!

With two of the three established "Nick Stoner" problems completed, the obvious progression was to try the upper moves on the original "Nick Stoner" climb, one that has sat for many years without a repeat and was given a V10 by Tommy Durant when he FA'd the line. With some interesting beta from Francis, I was able to link all the way through the boulder problem and fell two hand movements away from the V0 topout (finishes the same as "Mr. Jones"-V0) I had done these moves minutes earlier in isolation so I am confident that on the next good day of attempts at Nine Corners, I can finally send the elusive "Nick Stoner".

Media Update:




Old Video from The Gunks...

I found this older video from a place called "The Northeast" down in the Gunks filmed back in April, 2011.  The roof has some stellar boulder problems on it, but I believe that climbing here in now banned due to soil/vegetatation disturbance.

Shown below is a sweet V7 traverse called "Cataclysm's Edge.  The first time I saw video of this climb was on the Big Up Productions website.  Nice find guys!

Media Update:

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Nine Corners Lake...Video Beta

This past Thursday November 3, 2011; I was fortunate enough to get out of work early enough to catch an hour of light before the sun went down and the lanterns had to come out for a night session at Nine Corners Lake.  After getting a few inches of snow last weekend I looked at this as a second chance before winter rolls in to stay so I really wanted to capitalize on the opportunity.

Conditions were perfect, the psych level was through the roof, and everything felt great in the boulderfield.

Here are some of the boulder problems that were done that night.

Media Update: