Wednesday, October 31, 2012

"Absolute Zero" at Nine Corners Lake

A contived boulder problem on the cave boulder up at the Nine Corners Lake Boulders.  If you can get over the fact that you are eliminating a jug rail during the crux sequence at the halfway point of the traverse, the climb can be really fun and challenging. 

The climb is long and pumpy, the moves are taxing and difficult and the traverse allows you to move across the entire cave boulder from left to right.  The original "Absolute Zero" traverse ended by topping out through the "Psychsomatic" finish.  This finishing point never really made sense to me other than the fact that it was a top out for a different boulder problem.  I feel that the full traverse will eventually be the preferred finish for this rock climb.  Like I said, if you can get over the contrived nature of the climb, it is one that should definatley make it onto your tick list.

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Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Green Lake Boulders and a quick circuit

Quick video of some of the classic lines on the Green Lake Boulders.  Enjoy

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Monday, October 29, 2012

The Italian Butterfly: Tazio II Biondo

These training techniques are some of the most impressive I have ever seen.  I feel like anyone with this type of finger strength should hands down be climbing at the top level worldwide.

Enjoy the show from the "Italian Butterfly"








Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Second Ascent - "Buck Fever"- 5.12c

This route consumed my climbing efforts for many weekends throughout the summer and early fall.  Week after week we would venture into the cliff to find the bottom of the route seeping from prior rainfall.  Thanks to the patience of the SAC climbing crew and their continued psych, I was finally able to finally  redpoint Buck Fever on Saturday September 15, 2012.  This send coming six weeks after falling at the very top of the route in typical "punter" fashion.

Ken Murphy snagged the first ascent (as a lead route) on Buck Fever back on July 21st.  Since the first ascent, two holds have broken on the route and in my opinion have changed the difficulty of the climb significantly.  What was initially considered a 5.12b is now more likely a hard 5.12c, maybe even 5.12d as it is much more demanding and pumpy as compared to "Push"- 5.12c on the neighboring Good Luck Lake Cliffs.

Buck Fever



Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Access Fund's "Adopt-a-Crag" Event This Saturday @ Nine Corners

Never been to Nine Corners Before?  Below is a link to one of my blog pages that has a continually growing archive of bouldering videos at Nine Corners Lake...check it out, get psyched and come check it out!!!

Nine Corners Lake Video Archive

Come join us locals at Nine Corners Lake in Caroga Lake, NY this Saturday October 20th from 8am until darkness falls as we help one another clean up misc. trash on the approach trail, around the NYSDEC designated campsites on Nine Corners Lake and any other debris that we might encounter. We will also be relocating dead and down trees that came down during last year's Hurricane Irene.

Come out, lend a hand, give each other a spot as we clean and climb for an entire day. Meet some locals, get a personal tour of the established boulder field, check out some long standing projects, find some new projects, enjoy the scenery and most of all just have fun!

Prizes will be given away randomly as a way to say thanks for your time and help. I have a box of gear from the Access Fund and from Organic Climbing to unload, so bring the hype and hopefully i'll see you there, DEET!
 





 

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Confirming Some More ADK Bouldering Destiny

KiPpy was right, man was he right! 

The talus fields encompassing Round Pond, Chapel Pond and the adjacent stretch of Route 73 through Keene Valley offer more new bouldering potential than I have seen yet in the Adirondack Park.  Murph, Banta and I got to explore them personally a few weekends back and were blown away but what we saw.  Looking at the aerial images below, it is pretty clear that we didn't even scratch the surface!  This is really exciting!!!  Projects here we come...








Wednesday, October 3, 2012

"Ocean of Air"- V8

Here is a great boulder problem at Great Barrington Mass. known as "Ocean of Air".  I believe it was established in the fall of 2010 by a local; Greg Locker.  Either way, it is a great pure boulder problem in one of my favorite New England bouldering areas.  I took a thrilling "big" fall but was able to keep it together for a send later in the day.

Brad- thanks for the spotting and Banta thanks for the footage!

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