Incredible New Line @ the "Marble Zone"

Take a step back to Saturday, May 4th.  Early that morning I had to call the guys to give them the unfortunate news that I was up all night, again with severe back spasms.  Kippy, Banta, Sully, Ron, and Pooler were all making the trek into the Marble Zone and I wasn't going to be able to make it to partake in the fun due to total exhaustion, again.

After a couple of hours of trying to loosen up that morning, I decided that I had to head into the woods to see what the guys were up to.  Upon arriving at the main bouldering area at the Marble Zone, I found Johnny Sullivan tethered to a rope cleaning the top out of one of the coolest lines any of us had seen to date in the area.  He looked down to where I sat for a quick rest and let me know that he could no longer feel his legs and that he'd been on the rope cleaning for nearly three straight hours!

This climb started under a short roof with hands matched on a large horizontal seam.  The first move was a big right hand move to a good hold, then advancing to a jug/undercling that would eventually get matched on before trying to turn the roof and climb the incut slots to the top of the 20 foot outcropping stone.  The top out proved to be trivial and on that first day, as Johnny took some thrilling falls, over and over again.

Fast forward to this past Saturday...the rock in the Adirondacks was finally relatively dry and the SAC crew was rolling deep.  Johnny brought his "A" game and ended up sending the boulder third try, claiming the first ascent of that I think is one of the best boulder problems at the Marble Zone and definitely creeps it's way into my top ten boulder problems in the Adirondacks!  Good on ya Johnny and congratulations on your send of "Pleasure Treasure"!!!

Climbing video to come in the VERY near future, but until then, here are some epic photos compliments of Keith Banta from Saturday...

Media Update:

Some Less Known Adk Boulder Problems

Is anyone else getting as excited as I am as the upstate New York weather has shifted from last week's relentless 90+ degree heat and high humidity to these much cooler and more crisp days this week?  The temperature this morning as I left for work was 56 degrees, damn man now that is some serious sending weather!

It has officially been five days since my last back spasm and although I am not ready to rush into any full day bouldering sessions on long hikes into remote cliffs with my haul bag, I have been slowly increasing the training on my home wall to get my fingers and core muscles back into climbing shape.  With conditions like yesterday and today, I am getting really anxious for the late summer/early fall sessions and don't want to fall behind.  August has five weekends this year and I plan on maximizing my time on the rock as the fall quickly approaches.

Here are some short videos highlighting some of the less known boulder problems in the Southern Adirondacks.  I established "Ass Dragger"- V7 at the Pinnacle Pull Off in Caroga Lake, New York back in 2005 and to my knowledge it hasn't seen any other ascents until recently when SAC crew member Ron Manning wrote off the thuggish boulder problem.  Good on ya, Ron! 

"Sledge"- V6/7 at the Marble Zone in Hope Falls, New York was established by the one and only Nyle Baker earlier this year (February-ish) when Ken Murphy was living under the impressive 45 degree wall, preparing all of the steep climbs for the rest of us Adirondack locals.  Thanks Murphy, the Mzone is a great addition to the park and thank you Nyle for establishing this fun/steep climb!

Media Update:

New Action Photos for the Upcoming Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook

As I work through the bouldering guidebook process, it became apparent pretty quickly that the current stock of bouldering photos that I have are sub par and need to be updated as I move forward.  I am nowhere near an advanced photographer, but it easy to see the distinct difference between a decent bouldering photograph and one where the photographer paid special attention to the lighting, the surrounding landscape, the exposure, etc., etc.

Below are some images that Jobiana Gabrielli (Murph's signifcant other, AKA Jobi) took using here camera of choice.  The long range goal is to host numerous photoshoots this fall when the landscape and and foliage is in full effect here in the Adirondack Park so the bouldering photographs actually do some justice to the Adirondack climbing scene.

If you feel that you have some neat bouldering photographs from any of the 20+ Adirondack Bouldering locations, please don't hesitate to get ahold of me to potentially have it included in the upcoming guidebook.  Also, if you have any interest in participating in the future photoshoots for the guidebook, please let me know.  Thanks,

Media Update:

 

 

Climberism: Summer/2013 and the Locals Issue

David Crothers over at Climberism has put together a pretty interesting summer magazine that highlights numerous local northeast climbers.  I thought it was a great concept and rather enjoyed reading about some of the driving forces in our local climbing community that I had never heard of before.  To those dedicated locals, I wanted to personally thank you for your efforts and please continue doing what you do best! 

Media Update: (Pages extracted from the online Climberism Magazine)

http://www.climberism.com/



Evan Race in Climberism Magazine

Conjugal Visit Sit Start- First Ascent on the Prison Boulder

Despite this past June setting the record for the wettest June on record here in upstate, New York; I was finally able to complete the full sit start into "Conjugal Visit"- V10 on the infamous Prison Boulder in Caroga Lake, New York.  This sit start is the same sit start to the unrepeated Ken Murphy boulder problem named "Pot of Gold"- V11 which traverses the boulder once you gain the jug hold on the arete.  I am very anxious to get back there to try this variation and hopefully get a second ascent of Murph's very difficult and sustained rock climb. 

It is hard to believe that my most difficult rock climb to date was accomplished in the heat, humidity and dampness of June.  I am really psyched to see what this fall has in store for the S.A.C. crew.  Deet, daht!