Friday, January 31, 2014

Green Lake Boulders- New Boulder Problem

Despite the recent Polar Vortex conditions nationwide, I was finally able to link all of the moves on a project I have been working on this winter at the Green Lake boulders.  This new boulder problem is a variation off of "Target Practice"- V5 that does the first few moves and then trends left on extremely small crimps to a dyno right handed to the lip or a hard move left hand to an edge just below the lip.  Initially I had done the stand start (probably around V8) by simply dyno'ing to the lip right handed since the left hand crimp is slightly better.  But after countless sessions on the full link of the problem, it was realized that staying on the worse right hand crimp and moving left hand to an edge below the lip was more doable.  This problem is definately difficult and the cold temperatures played a big part in the linkup with high friction properties.

To all the haters and nah-sayers, I will be the first to tell you that YES I stepped off of the boulder problem once I matched the lip because of the snow accumlation and the inability to successfully top it out.  In my opinion I did the boulder problem since all of the difficult moves were completed, but I will return this spring to climb the new problem from bottom to top.

Ah deet.....

Media Update:


Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Late November Session at Chapel Pond

Better late than never...

Here is a quick video of some of the problems that I got to climb with Johnny and Ronnie last November up in Keene, New York at Chapel Pond.  It is looking like there is going to be a plethora of bouldering areas documented along this stretch of Route 73 in Keene.  So far there has been bouldering documented at Chapel Pond, Round Pond, at the approach to Spiders Web, and at a few other various locations along the massive stretch of cliff bands and talus fields.  If you know of any more areas, please feel free to comment!  Thanks in advance...

Media Update:


Monday, January 6, 2014

The Endless Rock Around Lost Hunters...

I had the opportunity this weekend to do some more exploring around the infamous Lost Hunter's crag in the Caroga Lake Region.  I have seen these massive boulders on the approach to this back country cliff and have stood beneath most of them marveling at their steep terrain and features...just enough features in fact to make for some excellent and hard boulder problems.  Yesterdays snowshoe recon mission reconfirmed what I had already known; these boulders are big, these boulders have holds, the landings are decent and these boulders have never been climbed on!  All together I mapped out over a dozen house sized boulders with numerous smaller/satelite boulders and rock outcrops in the immediate area.  I even stumbled across two cliff bands that I have never seen before and I have been in this area over 30 times in the past two years. 

I would estimate that there are somewhere between 30-40 boulder problems on these untouched back country boulders and I have every intention of doing some preparation work to get them ready and climbable by the spring season.  The concentration of boulders makes the journey into this area worth the effort.  Once at the boulders, everything is in close proximity to one another.  The approach to these boulders dwarfs 90% of the current Adirondack Bouldering locations and takes roughly 45 minutes but in my opinion the next progression for Adirondack Bouldering will be found in the remote/back country zones. 

Here are some pictures to peak some interests, all of the boulders shown are a minimum of 20 feet tall for reference, I didn't post images of any of the "smaller" boulders that will still yield some great boulder problems.  Also, there is a 30' tall boulder by the main cliff itself that I also did not post...