Friday, October 26, 2018

Getting Back Into my Groove at Nine Corner Lake

Well after nearly a year of ongoing finger issues from a tendon tear last August I am finally starting to climb well at my local stomping ground...Nine Corner Lake.  If you have watched any of my youtube videos in the past or read any blog post from Nine Corner, I am sure that you are familiar with the high volume days that I have had up there in past seasons.  100+ V-point days on more than one occasion and even a 200 V-Point day when I was at my boulder peak!

Here is a quick video highlighting some of my recent repeats form this past week as I continue to focus on getting back into good bouldering shape/condition for this coming winter and spring 2019 seasons.

Media Update:



Saturday, October 20, 2018

Woods Lake Bouldering, Fall 2018

Guess who's back...

To any of my longtime loyal bloggers who still randomly check for new posts here is a new one just for you!  I hope you have been able to get out lately to enjoy some of these good fall conditions (when it is not raining of course!).

It seems like my psych for bouldering has been reactivated again, mainly because I have been fortunate enough to sneak into the forest with my longtime climbing buddy, Ken Murphy.  He and I started climbing together back in 2004 and his recent development efforts at some local Adirondack locations and his streak of crushing rock climbs has really got me excited again.  It feels great to just be back outside climbing on some rocks.

Below are a collection of videos and pictures from Woods Lake in the Adirondacks.  This small collection of high quality boulders is a mere 15 minute hike off of the road and directly on the Northville/Lake Placid Trail.  To my knowledge, Luke Cassick put up the first boulder problems here back in 2015 (first video).  In 2017, Bill Griffith took a visiting Canadian climber named Gui to these boulders and he established the hardest problem at the time (second video) which is probably a V5/6.  Most recently, local Adirondack hardman and overall badass, Ken Murphy added a sit start to Gui's problem (probably in the V9/10 range) as well as established another V-Hard compression problem, a classic V6/7 slanting arete, and I contributed by adding a classic V3/4 highball with a big dyno near the start of the problem.  Overall, Woods Lake could have upwards of 15-20 boulder problems once development is complete!

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Monday, February 5, 2018

Collaboration with Catalyst Productions (Element Climbing)

  2017 was an extremely productive year for me in regards to climbing hold design and climbing hold production work for various companies.  Asana Climbing and their owner Jamey Sproull finally gave me an opportunity to shape some new sets for them and what started out small scale in the preliminary stages quickly grew as more sets were being requested.  Altogether, I was fortunate enough to shape the following sets for Asana Climbing as well as produce the silicone molds for their production company, Catalyst Productions:

  • the Jabbas Family  (35 dual textured jugs and 10 dual textured crimps):
https://www.asanaclimbing.com/holds/shaper/justin-sanford/jabbas-family.html

  • the Pongos Family (7 multi-tex slopers and 7 identical slopers without the texture application)
https://www.asanaclimbing.com/holds/shaper/justin-sanford/pongo-family.html



  • the Lobos Family (40 flat edge holds from small to XXXL)
https://www.asanaclimbing.com/holds/shaper/justin-sanford/lobos-family.html


  After completing the design and molding work for Asana Climbing, the owner of Catalyst Productions, David Filkins had requested that I make my way down to their warehouse in Jasper, GA so I could work side by side with his molding specialist and hold pouring team to learn some of their proprietary secrets and skills that they have developed over the past few years in the industry.  I was able to spend a handful of days down there with their team back in late November.  As a result of the trip, Catalyst Productions is going to slowly bring me onto their team to work remotely here from New York as one of their molding specialists for some of the various companies that they produce silicone molds for and pour the climbing holds for.  I am super excited and anxious to see where all of this can lead me in the near future.  2018, here I come!!!  
























Monday, December 18, 2017

Lobos "Plate" Series for Asana Climbing

  Here is another hold series that I shaped for Asana Climbing this past fall.  The owner of Asana; Jamey Sproull approached me with the set concept and then he and I worked together via facetime chats, phone calls, and text messages to help us finalize all of the fine details for the entire set.  Keep your eye on their website, because this set should be available for purchase soon!