Some images from a quick afternoon session at Moss Island in Little Falls, New York. Once the wind died down a bit, it was actually quite comfortable climbing in the 30 degree temperatures. All of "Profile Rock" was dry offering tons of traverse and eliminate opportunities to keep anyone desperate for dry rock occupied for a couple of hours. It felt really nice to climb on actual rock and I am patiently waiting for Spring to finally come around. I always forget that Moss Island is climbable almost year-round. Due to the blackish rock and the continous sun exposure, this is your local place to climb outdoors after a rain event or snowfall...
Here are some pictures of a short crimp classic, "Mr. Smiley".
Despite the recent Polar Vortex conditions nationwide, I was finally able to link all of the moves on a project I have been working on this winter at the Green Lake boulders. This new boulder problem is a variation off of "Target Practice"- V5 that does the first few moves and then trends left on extremely small crimps to a dyno right handed to the lip or a hard move left hand to an edge just below the lip. Initially I had done the stand start (probably around V8) by simply dyno'ing to the lip right handed since the left hand crimp is slightly better. But after countless sessions on the full link of the problem, it was realized that staying on the worse right hand crimp and moving left hand to an edge below the lip was more doable. This problem is definately difficult and the cold temperatures played a big part in the linkup with high friction properties.
To all the haters and nah-sayers, I will be the first to tell you that YES I stepped off of the boulder problem once I matched the lip because of the snow accumlation and the inability to successfully top it out. In my opinion I did the boulder problem since all of the difficult moves were completed, but I will return this spring to climb the new problem from bottom to top.
Here is a quick video of some of the problems that I got to climb with Johnny and Ronnie last November up in Keene, New York at Chapel Pond. It is looking like there is going to be a plethora of bouldering areas documented along this stretch of Route 73 in Keene. So far there has been bouldering documented at Chapel Pond, Round Pond, at the approach to Spiders Web, and at a few other various locations along the massive stretch of cliff bands and talus fields. If you know of any more areas, please feel free to comment! Thanks in advance...
I had the opportunity this weekend to do some more exploring around the infamous Lost Hunter's crag in the Caroga Lake Region. I have seen these massive boulders on the approach to this back country cliff and have stood beneath most of them marveling at their steep terrain and features...just enough features in fact to make for some excellent and hard boulder problems. Yesterdays snowshoe recon mission reconfirmed what I had already known; these boulders are big, these boulders have holds, the landings are decent and these boulders have never been climbed on! All together I mapped out over a dozen house sized boulders with numerous smaller/satelite boulders and rock outcrops in the immediate area. I even stumbled across two cliff bands that I have never seen before and I have been in this area over 30 times in the past two years.
I would estimate that there are somewhere between 30-40 boulder problems on these untouched back country boulders and I have every intention of doing some preparation work to get them ready and climbable by the spring season. The concentration of boulders makes the journey into this area worth the effort. Once at the boulders, everything is in close proximity to one another. The approach to these boulders dwarfs 90% of the current Adirondack Bouldering locations and takes roughly 45 minutes but in my opinion the next progression for Adirondack Bouldering will be found in the remote/back country zones.
Here are some pictures to peak some interests, all of the boulders shown are a minimum of 20 feet tall for reference, I didn't post images of any of the "smaller" boulders that will still yield some great boulder problems. Also, there is a 30' tall boulder by the main cliff itself that I also did not post...
Here is a quick video collaboration of some of the better projects that I had to walk away from this past season. If we could get a break in this winter weather, I might be able to write one or two of them off before the end of the calender year...
Anyone else have to walk away from a project leaving you to think about it every single day???
It' been over three weeks now with nothing but indoor plastic pulling and training. I am hopeful that everyone was able to get their outdoor climbing fix in before all of this winter weather rolled in the spoiled all the fun! My temperature gauge read -5 degrees this morning and the Jeep reluctantly started in the arctic conditions...time to train my friends, time to train...
In between recent home wall sessions and grueling hangboard work outs, I have been flipping through some of the media folders I had collected from this past fall; which in hindsight was one of the best autumns (weatherwise) that we have had here in the Adirondacks in the past four years. I know the SAC crew was taking full advantage of it and I am glad that we did. With the weather pattern the way that is has been, it might be a long time until we are out there developing again. Oh how many undone projects I had to walk away from as 2013 was quickly coming to a close. I will be thinking about each and every one of them as I try to improve my strength, stamina, technique and endurance this winter.
Good on ya mates, can't wait to get out there again (and hopefully soon)! Last year we were able to boulder at Great Barrington right into mid-January. Not the case this year...not the case this year.
Some archived photos from late fall, 2013.
Many more posts to come in the next few weeks. I want to actively track my training schedule, progress and results. What better place to do so than right here on the S.A.C. Deet, daht!
This is one sweet ass boulder problem at the Round Pond pull off on Rt. 73 in Keene Valley, near Chapel Pond. I wasn't able to walk away with a send, but had a bunch of fun with Sully and Ron that weekend in Keene. I am anxiously awaiting Spring to head back to these boulders to continue documenting problems for the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook. Tons of rock and all of it is on State Land!!!
Well readers, this post officially marks the 200th post here on Southern Adirondack Climber, so I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who has been continually checking in on the blog to see what has been going on in the Adirondack bouldering scene and other areas in the northeast.
This past weekend, the crew was supposed to be on another epic journey into Second Pond to continue development of that massive boulder field, but mother nature forced us to change our plans last minute due to anticipated snowfall so we returned to Crane Mountain for another fall session. Once again, the extensive boulder field at Crane did not let us down. The conditions were prime for sending and it seemed like everyone was having a great time bouldering in one of the larger developed areas in the Adirondacks. Jake List from Burlington, VT made quick work of a beautiful, long standing project on the Dinosaur Boulder on the back side in what was known locally as "The Cave". He suggests V11 for the boulder problem and it is one of the most aesthetic boulder problems I have seen in the Adirondacks.
I am currently working on the video edit from the weekend, but for now here is a surge of photographs from the weekend to help keep the psych levels high.