Monday, December 8, 2014

Great Barrington Bouldering: Kindred Spirits- V9

I have been fortunate with the weather and the new job/career cooperating with one another.  Outside of the Fire Department duties I have been able to focus a good deal of time and effort on the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook, working out, training for climbing, and most importantly...actually getting outside and climbing on real rock.

Last week I met up with Greg Stone (AKA Stone Master) at Reservoir Rocks in Great Barrington, MA to get a quick bouldering session in.  As the day progressed, we eventually made our way out to a beautiful boulder/outcrop that has Kindred Spirits-V9 and True Bleau- V10 on it.  After a dozen or so attempts, both Greg and I were making great progress on Kindred Spirits.  By the end of the session, I was consistently falling after sticking the crux lip hold and was confident that on a return visit I would be able to send the boulder problem quickly.  Stone Master was also freakishly close to linking a long standing project called Fantasia...it was very inspiring to witness first hand.

I returned this week and was psyched to run into Tyler and his friend Matt.  Matt was also exited to get on Kindred Spirits which meant more positive energy and some helpful spotters!  I was able to send the problem on my first try of the day and Matt made some really good progress on the line.  Thanks again for the psych and spotting fellas!

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Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Great Barrington, MA: The Probe Boulder

Here is a quick video from last week on the Probe Boulder in Great Barrington, MA.  I am hoping to get back there soon to wrap up a handful of my personal projects before we get hammered with more snow.  Problems that are currently high on my list are:  Kindred Spirits, In Plain Sight, True Bleau, Titties and Booties and Something From Nothing.  We will see what I can tackle before 2015 rolls in...



Friday, November 21, 2014

Early November Session at Nine Corners Lake

This session was a week before the 100 point challenge outing.  The conditions were ideal and I had the boulders to myself on this random weekday climb.  Boulder problems include:  Hawaii 5.0- V5, Point Break- V7, Shape Shifter- V5 and Instant Yoga- V8.  Enjoy the video clip!!!

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Thursday, November 20, 2014

Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook...A Work in Progress

Stay psyched my friends, the guidebook is coming along quite well!!!  I am anticipating a printing completion mid-winter for an unveiling prior to the spring 2015 season.  Over 20 different areas and nearly 1,000 boulder problems in this first ever compilation.


Tuesday, November 18, 2014

100 Point Day at Nine Corners Lake

It is hard to believe that only a week ago it was warm, sunny and perfect climbing conditions in the now snow covered and sub-freezing temperatures of Nine Corners Lake.  Looking back on the past few months, I have spent some quality time bouldering at Nine Corners, getting back into bouldering shape, developing callused finger tips and working on my overall conditioning as the winter training season was quickly approaching.

Two weeks ago I was bouldering with Keith Banta and Johnny Sullivan and in the last hour of our session I was able to quickly send a slew of moderate and difficult boulder problems.  This end of the session performance got me psyched to challenge myself again at the elusive 100 point session.  A couple of years ago both Kenny Murphy and I tallied up 100 v-points each in a one day bouldering session.  I remembered it being extremely taxing on the body and that both of us struggled to hit the final goal that day.  So, I was determined to give it a shot again...

My personal "rules" for the day's challenge from last Monday, November 10, 2014:

1.  Boulder Problems had to be V4 or harder
2.  Each problem could only be attempted (3) times, maximum
3.  The bouldering session would last only (4) hours
4.  If the 100 point goal was reached, I had to go swimming in the lake...

Enjoy the video compilation from that session....it highlights all (18) completed boulder problems

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Sunday, November 9, 2014

NEW Adirondack Boulders Near Nine Corners Lake

I cannot take credit for the discovery of these massive glacial erratics.  It was the dedicated scouting and exploring by Gary Thomann and his fellow "Arietta Climbing Team" that unearthed these boulders during a winter recon mission as they were seeking out potential cliffs for development.

It doesn't look like there will be time to develop any problems on these boulders prior to the publication of my bouldering guidebook, but a detailed map with directions and images of the boulder will be included in the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook.

There was a good size collection of boulders in this area at the base of a south facing cliff band; maybe 15-20 climbable boulders in total.  Some of the boulders were upwards of 30 ft. in overall height and there were enough features and holds to make future development worthwhile...

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Tuesday, November 4, 2014

So Much Sending this Fall- Sleeping Beauty Boulders

So my blog posts have not been keeping up with the amount of time I have been spending in the Adirondacks with the crew and by myself exploring new bouldering areas, frequenting familiar areas and doing recon on other established areas that I've never seen before.  The weather has been cooperative, the psych levels have been high, my climbing conditioning has been improving and the new work schedule offers what finally feels like adequate time away from work obligations to focus on tasks around the house, strength training, climbing training and shaping new climbing holds.  I look forward to what the future holds as I move forward.

I have so much new media to share...pictures of new/massive boulders only a couple of miles from Nine Corners Lake, HD video of numerous Adirondack boulder problems and action photos of me and the SAC crew doing what we love to do in our free time.  For now however, here are some pictures from a recent outing to the Sleeping Beauty boulders on Lake George.  The main set included two massive boulders with high quality rock, flat landings and some stellar boulder problems.

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Monday, October 27, 2014

Stellar Fall Session at Nine Corners Lake

This past Saturday we were blessed with some sweet fall conditions at Nine Corners Lake in Caroga Lake, New York.  I was the first member of the crew to arrive at the trail head and hiked in ahead of everyone else to get an early start on the day.  I was joined on my approach hike by a local hunter who had his rifle in hand, so a gentle reminder that we share the Adirondack forest with lots of hunters every fall season, so please wear your bright colors and try to be respectful while hiking through the woods (too much unnecessary noise could ruin any chances for the local hunters).

The day started cold and dry with tons of friction.  It didn't take long for others to arrive and to join in on the sending spree.  Saturday turned out to be one of the most fun outings I have had in a very long time.  Johnny Sullivan, Keith Banta, Andrew Cieply, and Zac and Heather Wasielewski were all there enjoying the day and trying hard on some Nine Corners classics.  Andrew was making his debut back into bouldering after two finger tendon injuries but looked as strong as ever, Johnny was refusing to let go of holds, Banta was straight squeezing juice out of the rock and Zac and Heather were trying hard on some new highballs back on the Wave Boulder.  It was very easy to get motivated while climbing with this group...let's hope that winter holds off for a few more weekends.

I did see snow in the forecast already for this coming weekend...I hoe they are wrong!

Here are some pictures from our recent session...Media Update:




















Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Evan Race tackles the Second Ascent of the Gnar Wall

Evan Race doing what he does best...crushing hard classics on the east coast.  In the video below, Evan tackles the second ascent of one of the most difficult and boldest boulder problems currently established in the Adirondack Park.  I have been working with the land owner of this property trying to secure access for future bouldering and for permission to include the Brant Lake (AKA Narnia) boulders in my upcoming guidebook since they all lie of privately owned land.

Nice send Mr. Race!!

Information taken from New England Bouldering and Evan's you tube video

http://www.newenglandbouldering.com/news/2014/10/6/gnar-wall-2nd-ascent

http://www.climberism.com/ken-murphy-take-down-gnar-wall-project/

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/gnarwall-v11-2nd-ascent




Sunday, September 21, 2014

Late Summer Sends at Snowy Mountain

Here is a quick bouldering video from a couple of weeks ago at Snowy Mountain....enjoy and can't wait to see everyone this fall season!

Coitus- V6
P.O.W.- V5
Contorted- V3