Saturday, August 29, 2015

Nine Corner Bouldering: Lifeguard Training, Sit (V8), Whip Tide, Sit (V9)

The video below highlights two difficult boulder problems at Nine Corner Lake in the southern portion of New York's Adirondack State Park.  To my knowledge, Whip Tide, Sit has not seen a repeat ascent since I established it back in the fall of 2011 (if you have repeated it, please let me know and also let me know how difficult you think it is).  I also recently established the difficult sit start into Lifeguard Training (V5) and think that the sit start moves bump the problem into the V7/8 range.  It involves a really big and powerful move that shut me down for years...

I hope everyone is getting out there to climb on some rocks and I assure you that the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook is nearing completion (anticipated printing date in late September, just in time for ROCK-tober here in the northeast)

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Saturday, August 15, 2015

Summer Bouldering Sessions and the Weight Debate

So I am still working hard on the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook.  Last week, I encountered a required margin adjustment which forced me to revise every single page of the 300+ page guidebook.  It has been a daunting and tedious task but I am really happy with what the final layout is looking like.

Guidebook aside, I have been sneaking in outdoor climbing sessions whenever time allows as I prepare for the upcoming fall climbing season.  My training has involved campus board sessions weekly, home wall sessions and outdoor climbing 2-3 times a week to keep the skin in good climbing condition.  I have been experiencing a noticeable decrease in my crimp strength ever since I gained 15-20 lbs last year after the doctors discovered an undetected bleeding ulcer that nearly took my life.  The added weight feels normal for my build and is probably where I should be on a routine basis (unlike the extreme low of 147 lbs. that I hit in 2013 following a back surgery).  I am now around the 175 lb. mark and it has taken many months for my fingers to adjust to the new load.

Below are two short videos highlighting some very crimpy boulder problems at the Green Lake Boulders and Canada Lake Boulders (aka Pinnacle Pull-Off).  I have done both of these problems numerous times in the past but also only weighed 160 lbs. max.  Now at 175 lbs., I struggled with these problem for a couple of weeks until my fingers adjusted to carrying some more weight.  My game plan is to continue my training as I currently am because  I am seeing great results and then shred 10-15 lbs. from the end of August through the month of September.  The loss of weight and the added training should put me in decent fighting shape come least I hope!

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Saturday, July 25, 2015

Rand Mountain (aka Marble Zone) and a New Bouldering Zone

A BIG thanks to Rodney Manning for showing me this new group of boulders that he found on Rand Mountain (aka Marble Zone).  Manning had stumbled upon them a couple of months ago while hiking the mountain with his dog and put some effort into establishing some problems on the steep wall of this boulder.  Altogether, there appears to be potential for 12-15 independent boulder problems in this new area and it is only 5-7 minutes hike off of the seasonal road.  Sweet find Ron and thanks for the tour buddy!

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Wednesday, July 8, 2015

Nine Corner Lake: Cave Wall Classics in the Summer

So, despite all of the bouldering guidebook work and the notheast's rain, heat and relentless humidity...I have been able to sneak out a couple of times to enjoy some pretty decent summer bouldering.  Usually this time of year I "switch gears" from a bouldering focus to do some rope climbing due in part to the poor climbing conditions, but this year with the guidebook, all of my projects for this fall are boulder problems so when I get a chance to get out, I still boulder in attempts to keep up my bouldering fitness.

  A couple of weeks ago I had really good conditions for the end of June and was able to capitalize on it with a quality two hour session on the Cave Wall at Nine Corner Lake.  All of the problems except for Psycho-Killer were problems that I have done a bunch of times in the past, but it was refreshing to get on them again to see how my body/fitness level would hold up.  In the end, I was really happy with the performance.

  Who else is still out there trying to send/crush this summer season?  I would love to hear some comments from everyone...

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Sunday, June 28, 2015

Snowy Mountain Session...Late Spring 2015

To all my readers/viewers (if I still have any)...sorry for the large gap in climbing posts.  I have been working extremely hard on the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook so I can go to the printers this summer.  But, anyone that knows me well enough also knows that I still need to climb outside to keep some level of sanity.

  Here is a short video from a bouldering session at Snowy Mountain in late May with my buddy Gregory Stone (aka Stonemaster).  We ended up having one hell of a day up there, with the boulders to ourselves.  Greg was able to take down some area classics in style on a perfect spring day.  Good on ya Mate!

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Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Which Picture of Thorazine for the Guidebook?

Looking for some of the climbing communities feedback/input....

Here are a handful of photos of the boulder problem, Thorazine -V8 at Nine Corner Lake in Caroga Lake, New York.  My question is which of the three images does the most justice for the problem.  And for those of you who have not yet met this Adirondack stone crusher, this is Andrew Cieply (aka Freak of Strength) out of the Utica/Western NY region and a long time Adirondack Bouldering fixture and all around great guy!  If you happen to cross paths, say hi, share a bouldering story or two and definitely offer up a crash pad or spot if time allows.  You will not be disappointed!!!  

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Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Introducing...Kenta Yamada

  So psyched to see this guy frequenting the Adirondack Bouldering areas!  You probably have seen him at some point trying hard on the free-standing boulder at The Edge climbing gym.  His energy levels are super high and his excitement on the bouldering scene is very apparent.  If you happen to see him out there in the woods, please introduce yourself, offer up a friendly spot and an extra pad or give him a hand with navigating the boulderfield to some of the areas best problems.

  I had the pleasure of working my personal bouldering project right next to Kenta as he methodically worked out all of the moves on his current project, Thorazine.  Making quick links on the line, it won't be long until he is successfully standing on top of the boulder.

Kenta, this shout out is for you buddy!!!

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Thursday, April 23, 2015

Nine Corners Lake- Moving Meditation

Last week I was able to capitalize on some prime early spring conditions at Nine Corners Lake with a repeat of a boulder problem that I established back in 2010.  Moving Meditation- V6 is a highball face climb on the backside of the Tower Boulder that boasts some difficult crimp moves on a 25 ft. sheer face.

To my knowledge, only a handful of people have repeated the problem...I am hoping that this video will spark more interest so other climbers will get on it and enjoy the sequence as much as I do.

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Sunday, April 19, 2015

Sickest Adirondack Bouldering Video

The video below was filmed and edited by my buddy Keith Banta.  In my opinion, the compilation speaks for itself.  For those of you who have a desire to send Thorazine this climbing season, this video should keep your psych levels high!

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