Thursday, April 17, 2014

Spring Training...

Here's to the snow finally melting and the conditions outdoors improving quickly!  It feels so nice to be able to finally train and climb again outdoors here in upstate New York.  Time to focus on overall fitness so some lingering projects can be sent this season.

Media Update:

Friday, April 4, 2014

Core Series (Extension Sets) Climbing Holds for Element Climbing

Awhile back, the owner of Element Climbing Holds had me design a series of climibng hold sets for their new "Core Series" lineup.  Here are some of the images of the final product from that effort.

Core Jugs

Core Pinches

Core Pockets

Core Super Set

Recently I have been asked to expand the Core Series lineup to include some roof jugs, some large jugs, a set of mini jugs as well as a set of crimps.  Below are some of the prototype sets that I created for the expansion sets as we try to round out the entire "Core Series" lineup.  A majority of these new holds have a generous radius on the incuts to allow for hours of pain free plastuc pulling and training.  The package of the foam prototypes was shipped out today and is scheduled to arrive at Element Climbing headquarters early next week.

Keep your eyes peeled for the newest Core Series sets from Element Climbing.

Core Crimps

Core Crimps

Core Crimps

Core Extension Sets

Core Jugs and Roof Jugs

Core Jugs and Roof Jugs

Core Extension Sets


Core Mini Jugs

Core Mini Jugs

Thursday, March 27, 2014

When will the snow GO???

Well, the southern portion of the Adirondack State Park in still completely snowed in.  I had a chance to hike into Nine Corners Lake briefly this past weekend with Ron to check out its' current state and there was still about 3'-4' of deep snow pack lingering in the boulder field.  The crux pinch on the Nick Stoner Arete which is usually unreachable from the ground was at eye level thanks to all of the snow.  The weather forecast looks like this all might change in the near future, so let's keep our fingers crossed.

Ron and I were able to climb on some actual dry rock at Nine Corners despite all of the snow.  We were able to run laps on the Popadropolis Traverse, Pop or Drop, and Try or Cry...all of which could not be topped out in the current snow conditions though.  I think I ended up doing all three variations maybe 6 times each to the lip...which was still a lot of fun and a great workout for the fingers and skin!

Here are a few pictures from this past weekend.  You'll notice that Ron had his snowboard with him...I think he was able to make it from the dam up at the lake down to the cars in about two minutes on the descent!  I had to run behind him on my snowshoes to try and keep up...great excercise, deet!!

Media Update:

Friday, March 21, 2014

Archived Video: Andrew Cieply on "Super Spores"

Last night I was going through my multiple external hard drives looking for quality Adirondack Bouldering photographs to use in the upcoming guidebook and I stumbled on a nice video from a late November session at Nine Corners Lake.

Below is the raw video of an absolute crusher, Mr. Andrew Cieply climbing the low start to "Spores" which was established by Nyle Baker and dubbed "Super Spores" in 2009.  Although Andrew makes this climb look effortless in the video, it is demanding from the start to the full value top out finish.

I am anxious for Spring to finally arrive, as I am sure everyone else is as well.  Enjoy the video clip.

Media Update:

Monday, March 3, 2014

Bouldering Outdoors Despite the Relentless Winter!

Some images from a quick afternoon session at Moss Island in Little Falls, New York.  Once the wind died down a bit, it was actually quite comfortable climbing in the 30 degree temperatures.  All of "Profile Rock" was dry offering tons of traverse and eliminate opportunities to keep anyone desperate for dry rock occupied for a couple of hours.  It felt really nice to climb on actual rock and I am patiently waiting for Spring to finally come around.  I always forget that Moss Island is climbable almost year-round.  Due to the blackish rock and the continous sun exposure, this is your local place to climb outdoors after a rain event or snowfall...

Here are some pictures of a short crimp classic, "Mr. Smiley".

Media Update:


Friday, January 31, 2014

Green Lake Boulders- New Boulder Problem

Despite the recent Polar Vortex conditions nationwide, I was finally able to link all of the moves on a project I have been working on this winter at the Green Lake boulders.  This new boulder problem is a variation off of "Target Practice"- V5 that does the first few moves and then trends left on extremely small crimps to a dyno right handed to the lip or a hard move left hand to an edge just below the lip.  Initially I had done the stand start (probably around V8) by simply dyno'ing to the lip right handed since the left hand crimp is slightly better.  But after countless sessions on the full link of the problem, it was realized that staying on the worse right hand crimp and moving left hand to an edge below the lip was more doable.  This problem is definately difficult and the cold temperatures played a big part in the linkup with high friction properties.

To all the haters and nah-sayers, I will be the first to tell you that YES I stepped off of the boulder problem once I matched the lip because of the snow accumlation and the inability to successfully top it out.  In my opinion I did the boulder problem since all of the difficult moves were completed, but I will return this spring to climb the new problem from bottom to top.

Ah deet.....

Media Update:

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Late November Session at Chapel Pond

Better late than never...

Here is a quick video of some of the problems that I got to climb with Johnny and Ronnie last November up in Keene, New York at Chapel Pond.  It is looking like there is going to be a plethora of bouldering areas documented along this stretch of Route 73 in Keene.  So far there has been bouldering documented at Chapel Pond, Round Pond, at the approach to Spiders Web, and at a few other various locations along the massive stretch of cliff bands and talus fields.  If you know of any more areas, please feel free to comment!  Thanks in advance...

Media Update:

Monday, January 6, 2014

The Endless Rock Around Lost Hunters...

I had the opportunity this weekend to do some more exploring around the infamous Lost Hunter's crag in the Caroga Lake Region.  I have seen these massive boulders on the approach to this back country cliff and have stood beneath most of them marveling at their steep terrain and features...just enough features in fact to make for some excellent and hard boulder problems.  Yesterdays snowshoe recon mission reconfirmed what I had already known; these boulders are big, these boulders have holds, the landings are decent and these boulders have never been climbed on!  All together I mapped out over a dozen house sized boulders with numerous smaller/satelite boulders and rock outcrops in the immediate area.  I even stumbled across two cliff bands that I have never seen before and I have been in this area over 30 times in the past two years. 

I would estimate that there are somewhere between 30-40 boulder problems on these untouched back country boulders and I have every intention of doing some preparation work to get them ready and climbable by the spring season.  The concentration of boulders makes the journey into this area worth the effort.  Once at the boulders, everything is in close proximity to one another.  The approach to these boulders dwarfs 90% of the current Adirondack Bouldering locations and takes roughly 45 minutes but in my opinion the next progression for Adirondack Bouldering will be found in the remote/back country zones. 

Here are some pictures to peak some interests, all of the boulders shown are a minimum of 20 feet tall for reference, I didn't post images of any of the "smaller" boulders that will still yield some great boulder problems.  Also, there is a 30' tall boulder by the main cliff itself that I also did not post...

Thursday, December 19, 2013

Some Personal Projects Left Undone for 2013

Here is a quick video collaboration of some of the better projects that I had to walk away from this past season.  If we could get a break in this winter weather, I might be able to write one or two of them off before the end of the calender year...

Anyone else have to walk away from a project leaving you to think about it every single day???

Media Update:

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Missing the Fall Conditions...

It' been over three weeks now with nothing but indoor plastic pulling and training.  I am hopeful that everyone was able to get their outdoor climbing fix in before all of this winter weather rolled in the spoiled all the fun!  My temperature gauge read -5 degrees this morning and the Jeep reluctantly started in the arctic conditions...time to train my friends, time to train...

In between recent home wall sessions and grueling hangboard work outs, I have been flipping through some of the media folders I had collected from this past fall; which in hindsight was one of the best autumns (weatherwise) that we have had here in the Adirondacks in the past four years.  I know the SAC crew was taking full advantage of it and I am glad that we did.  With the weather pattern the way that is has been, it might be a long time until we are out there developing again.  Oh how many undone projects I had to walk away from as 2013 was quickly coming to a close.  I will be thinking about each and every one of them as I try to improve my strength, stamina, technique and endurance this winter.

Good on ya mates, can't wait to get out there again (and hopefully soon)!  Last year we were able to boulder at Great Barrington right into mid-January.  Not the case this year...not the case this year.

Some archived photos from late fall, 2013.

Many more posts to come in the next few weeks.  I want to actively track my training schedule, progress and results.  What better place to do so than right here on the S.A.C.  Deet, daht!

Media Update

This is one sweet ass boulder problem at the Round Pond pull off on Rt. 73 in Keene Valley, near Chapel Pond.  I wasn't able to walk away with a send, but had a bunch of fun with Sully and Ron that weekend in Keene.  I am anxiously awaiting Spring to head back to these boulders to continue documenting problems for the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook.  Tons of rock and all of it is on State Land!!!