It is hard to believe that my most difficult rock climb to date was accomplished in the heat, humidity and dampness of June. I am really psyched to see what this fall has in store for the S.A.C. crew. Deet, daht!
Never Been to Hueco- V7
Tomas Donoso photograph scanned from Rock and Ice
Mr. Smiley
Mr. Smiley- V5 at Moss Island
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Conjugal Visit Sit Start- First Ascent on the Prison Boulder
Despite this past June setting the record for the wettest June on record here in upstate, New York; I was finally able to complete the full sit start into "Conjugal Visit"- V10 on the infamous Prison Boulder in Caroga Lake, New York. This sit start is the same sit start to the unrepeated Ken Murphy boulder problem named "Pot of Gold"- V11 which traverses the boulder once you gain the jug hold on the arete. I am very anxious to get back there to try this variation and hopefully get a second ascent of Murph's very difficult and sustained rock climb.
It is hard to believe that my most difficult rock climb to date was accomplished in the heat, humidity and dampness of June. I am really psyched to see what this fall has in store for the S.A.C. crew. Deet, daht!
It is hard to believe that my most difficult rock climb to date was accomplished in the heat, humidity and dampness of June. I am really psyched to see what this fall has in store for the S.A.C. crew. Deet, daht!
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Well done! The sequence into the stand has a lot going on, far more than I expected there to be, I figured it'd be maybe 3 moves into the stand, but it's more like a crazy 8-9 move boulder problem all its own. Awesome beta and fun to watch -- way to go bud!
ReplyDeleteAlso, really good to see you out there crushing so soon after surgery. Happy to see you looking healthy and strong!
ReplyDeleteAndrew, thanks for the comments man! In all actuality, I was at an all time low when I sent this problem. I had been experiencing non-stop back spasms following the back surgery, wasn't able to sleep, eat, train, etc...I actually ended up losing somewhere around 14 lbs as a result of the relentless pain (probable why I was able to send the problem pretty easily that day ha ha). My condition is getting much better and I hope to be a regular in the woods again very soon. Stay in touch, psyched to see some of that Northern PA sandstone this fall!!! Hope you and the crew are doing well.
DeleteNice work! That start looks heinous! Congrats! I'm hoping to head up that way in the fall, so many problems I've seen from your vids I want to try!
ReplyDeleteMike- Thanks man. The sit is pretty heinous, the pinky lock either sticks or it takes some serious skin in the process. I'd love to give you and your crew a tour of the best stuff we have in our region this fall. Conditions should be prime and I am confident you guys will have a blast! Cheers man
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