Friday, January 31, 2014

Green Lake Boulders- New Boulder Problem

Despite the recent Polar Vortex conditions nationwide, I was finally able to link all of the moves on a project I have been working on this winter at the Green Lake boulders.  This new boulder problem is a variation off of "Target Practice"- V5 that does the first few moves and then trends left on extremely small crimps to a dyno right handed to the lip or a hard move left hand to an edge just below the lip.  Initially I had done the stand start (probably around V8) by simply dyno'ing to the lip right handed since the left hand crimp is slightly better.  But after countless sessions on the full link of the problem, it was realized that staying on the worse right hand crimp and moving left hand to an edge below the lip was more doable.  This problem is definately difficult and the cold temperatures played a big part in the linkup with high friction properties.

To all the haters and nah-sayers, I will be the first to tell you that YES I stepped off of the boulder problem once I matched the lip because of the snow accumlation and the inability to successfully top it out.  In my opinion I did the boulder problem since all of the difficult moves were completed, but I will return this spring to climb the new problem from bottom to top.

Ah deet.....

Media Update:


  1. i'll give you the send on that thing. tried it once before and it felt super difficult, not sure how you were able to dyno off of those crimps! sick start to the new year

  2. Nice send man! I didn't think anyone has been able to get outdoor bouldering sessions in this winter. Cant wait to try the new line

  3. Ha ha, deet!!! Nice addition to the boulder

  4. No offense man, but you really do gotta top it out for it to count. Depends on the climb, but with one like this it clearly has a doable top out and needs to be done to consider it complete. Some climbs have a challenging top out that can add to the difficulty.

    EXAMPLE: I had a never climbed project in the Rumney boulders. I could do all the moves on it 3 years ago but I couldn't top it out. I never considered it done until I actually put effort into cleaning the top out and getting on top.

    IF the top out is effortless okay, maybe we can give it to ya though

    1. For it to count as what? I'm not logging this ascent on an 8a scorecard or anything or claiming the first ascent...just simply showcasing a video that I have linked the variation from the sit start to the lip of the boulder and letting it be known that YES I did step off of the boulder because snow was preventing the top out. I have every plan to return this spring to climb the problem in its' entirety.

      And for the record, the top out is casual...when it's not covered in snow, maybe the one arm hand and fist pump in the video help confirm that, or maybe that it is the same top out as the original V3 boulder problem...

    2. Internet troll...the top out on this problem doesn't add any difficulty to the problem and in dry conditions would have been done casually. Come give it a try this Spring and you would agree. Nice link Jut, that problem is definately difficult and a great addition to the local circuit