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Mr. Smiley
Tuesday, April 14, 2015
A Quick Repeat Send of The Gatekeeper
Man, Nine Corners is sooooo snowed in still!!! Navigating the boulders is a nightmare with the 24" of snow still in the woods and a lot of the classic lines are still snow covered and a sopping mess. There are however some climbable problems and I was able to repeat the burly problem called The Gatekeeper, despite the lingering winter conditions.
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Hey Jut. I made it out today and conditions were getting better and better. Also do you know if anyone has climbed the right side of the try or cry arete starting as for try or cry?
ReplyDeleteHey Taylor...good to hear from you man!
DeleteThere is a stand start on the right side of the Pop or Drop arete, that goes around V5. I have been trying a sit start with LH on the left side of the arete and RH on the right side of the arete and climbing up, staying strictly on the right side of the arete. Probably in the V9/10 range. Were you able to send it that way? The stand is called "Dropped". Cheers man!
Sweet thanks for the info. I came super close to sending I fell dynoing to the incut crimp high up on the right face. I was cilmbng it as if the two jugs on pop or drop were off. I had beta where after the compressiony sit moves I was dynoing from the right hand vnotch crimp on pop or drop as a left hand and a flat edge on the right face with my right hand; that move felt like the crux to me. How does Dropped climb?
ReplyDeleteDropped stand starts on the right side of the arete with that left hand v-notch and a low right hand sidepull. Move right hand up to that higher flat edge and then make a big move left hand around the arete to the crescent shaped sidepull on pop or drop.
DeleteKeep me updated as you make progress. Thanks man.
The line I was trying sounds a touch different from your vision I think, as I was using the LH start of try of cry as a hand and a foot. This variation of the line felt to be ~V9.
ReplyDeleteHey Jut conditions are getting better I was out there on the 16th. The cave wall was completely dry as well as all of the ground up on the top of that area. I was also able to send the complete traverse that same day. I am interested to know what the actual name of that climb is. I have heard it called sub-zero and absolute hero. Do you know who has the FA on this climb and who would have named said climb. Looking forward to another night session this summer. Peace
ReplyDeleteKyle- i'm surprised I didn't run into you yesterday, I was up there as well before the night shift at the fire house. SOOOO much snow has melted since Sunday afternoon and most of the boulders were fairly dry yesterday. Way psyched to see that.
DeleteNice send on the full cave traverse! If you went from the Nippin' out arete, all the way to the right and finished as Dry Ice then that is the full Absolute Zero traverse. I had previous discussions with Buzzy and that was the original way that he finished the traverse. Hard V8 for a grade.
If you traverse the cave wall from Dry Ice to the left and finished as Nippin' Out, then that is called Sub-Zero and Andrew Cieply from Utica got the first ascent on that line. Sub-Zero is a solid V9, with a much more difficult center crux than Absolute Zero.
Of special note, Murphy did a variation a long time ago that started as Psychosomatic and finished as Nippin' Out...also V9.
Cheers buddy!