Saturday, August 15, 2015

Summer Bouldering Sessions and the Weight Debate

So I am still working hard on the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook.  Last week, I encountered a required margin adjustment which forced me to revise every single page of the 300+ page guidebook.  It has been a daunting and tedious task but I am really happy with what the final layout is looking like.

Guidebook aside, I have been sneaking in outdoor climbing sessions whenever time allows as I prepare for the upcoming fall climbing season.  My training has involved campus board sessions weekly, home wall sessions and outdoor climbing 2-3 times a week to keep the skin in good climbing condition.  I have been experiencing a noticeable decrease in my crimp strength ever since I gained 15-20 lbs last year after the doctors discovered an undetected bleeding ulcer that nearly took my life.  The added weight feels normal for my build and is probably where I should be on a routine basis (unlike the extreme low of 147 lbs. that I hit in 2013 following a back surgery).  I am now around the 175 lb. mark and it has taken many months for my fingers to adjust to the new load.

Below are two short videos highlighting some very crimpy boulder problems at the Green Lake Boulders and Canada Lake Boulders (aka Pinnacle Pull-Off).  I have done both of these problems numerous times in the past but also only weighed 160 lbs. max.  Now at 175 lbs., I struggled with these problem for a couple of weeks until my fingers adjusted to carrying some more weight.  My game plan is to continue my training as I currently am because  I am seeing great results and then shred 10-15 lbs. from the end of August through the month of September.  The loss of weight and the added training should put me in decent fighting shape come least I hope!

Media Update:


  1. Are you using a specific training plan or one that you have found to favorable in the past? Also, what have you found to be an effective way to lose those extra 15lbs?

    1. I am currently using my own modified training cycle (based off of the Anderson Brothers- Rock Prodigy Training Program). Basically I have never incorporated the campus board in any of my training since I started climbing in 2004 so I am doing dedicated campus training for 8 weeks leading up to the fall. Ideally I would do campus training and hangboard training but I am leaving the winter open for an actual training cycle.

      As for losing weight, it simply boils down to going caloric deficient. If you reduce you calorie intake on a daily basis, you will lose weight. Also, implementing cardio and high intensity lifting (light weight, high repetition circuits) helps burn a bunch of calories. Back in high school when I was wrestling, I could routinely lose 8-10 lbs in a couple of days but it was super unhealthy and toxic on the body. For a healthy loss, 1-2 lbs. a week is in the safe range and is more likely to stay off.

  2. Dude! I tried Lock, Stock, and Barrel, as well as Paint It Black yesterday. Maybe it was the 80 degree temps and humidity but man, those lines are tough! I couldn't do two moves on either. Paint It Black seems super fun though, and I think I should have sent it -- I totally missed that high left foot that you're using for the start, guessing that's pretty crucial, oops! The fact that you're cruising these problems easily in the summer at 175 lbs is just scary. This fall is going to be soooo epic :)

  3. Andrew-
    So excited to hear that you have been consistently getting outside to boulder! These lines are tough, but very beta specific in my opinion. I struggled to repeat Lock, Stock and Barrel for weeks until I realized my old foot beta on the start, then sent quickly after the adjustment...

    Overburden this fall for both of us! Stay psyched buddy and hope to see you soon