Guidebook aside, I have been sneaking in outdoor climbing sessions whenever time allows as I prepare for the upcoming fall climbing season. My training has involved campus board sessions weekly, home wall sessions and outdoor climbing 2-3 times a week to keep the skin in good climbing condition. I have been experiencing a noticeable decrease in my crimp strength ever since I gained 15-20 lbs last year after the doctors discovered an undetected bleeding ulcer that nearly took my life. The added weight feels normal for my build and is probably where I should be on a routine basis (unlike the extreme low of 147 lbs. that I hit in 2013 following a back surgery). I am now around the 175 lb. mark and it has taken many months for my fingers to adjust to the new load.
Below are two short videos highlighting some very crimpy boulder problems at the Green Lake Boulders and Canada Lake Boulders (aka Pinnacle Pull-Off). I have done both of these problems numerous times in the past but also only weighed 160 lbs. max. Now at 175 lbs., I struggled with these problem for a couple of weeks until my fingers adjusted to carrying some more weight. My game plan is to continue my training as I currently am because I am seeing great results and then shred 10-15 lbs. from the end of August through the month of September. The loss of weight and the added training should put me in decent fighting shape come October...at least I hope!