Saturday, August 29, 2015

Nine Corner Bouldering: Lifeguard Training, Sit (V8), Whip Tide, Sit (V9)

The video below highlights two difficult boulder problems at Nine Corner Lake in the southern portion of New York's Adirondack State Park.  To my knowledge, Whip Tide, Sit has not seen a repeat ascent since I established it back in the fall of 2011 (if you have repeated it, please let me know and also let me know how difficult you think it is).  I also recently established the difficult sit start into Lifeguard Training (V5) and think that the sit start moves bump the problem into the V7/8 range.  It involves a really big and powerful move that shut me down for years...

I hope everyone is getting out there to climb on some rocks and I assure you that the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook is nearing completion (anticipated printing date in late September, just in time for ROCK-tober here in the northeast)

Media Update:



Saturday, August 15, 2015

Summer Bouldering Sessions and the Weight Debate

So I am still working hard on the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook.  Last week, I encountered a required margin adjustment which forced me to revise every single page of the 300+ page guidebook.  It has been a daunting and tedious task but I am really happy with what the final layout is looking like.

Guidebook aside, I have been sneaking in outdoor climbing sessions whenever time allows as I prepare for the upcoming fall climbing season.  My training has involved campus board sessions weekly, home wall sessions and outdoor climbing 2-3 times a week to keep the skin in good climbing condition.  I have been experiencing a noticeable decrease in my crimp strength ever since I gained 15-20 lbs last year after the doctors discovered an undetected bleeding ulcer that nearly took my life.  The added weight feels normal for my build and is probably where I should be on a routine basis (unlike the extreme low of 147 lbs. that I hit in 2013 following a back surgery).  I am now around the 175 lb. mark and it has taken many months for my fingers to adjust to the new load.

Below are two short videos highlighting some very crimpy boulder problems at the Green Lake Boulders and Canada Lake Boulders (aka Pinnacle Pull-Off).  I have done both of these problems numerous times in the past but also only weighed 160 lbs. max.  Now at 175 lbs., I struggled with these problem for a couple of weeks until my fingers adjusted to carrying some more weight.  My game plan is to continue my training as I currently am because  I am seeing great results and then shred 10-15 lbs. from the end of August through the month of September.  The loss of weight and the added training should put me in decent fighting shape come October...at least I hope!

Media Update: