Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Summer Training: Outdoor Extended Traverses

  So as I previously mentioned, with the added muscle mass from all of the weight training and the summer climbing conditions (heat, humidity, and bugs) my outdoor climbing sessions have consisted of high volume climbing; repeating moderate boulder problems with very limited attempts at "difficult" problems in an attempt to avoid discouragement and keep the outdoor climbing fun, varying, and enjoyable.

  These high volume sessions can actually be extremely fun and they offer a ton of hand movements and distance traveled on the rock.  A couple of weeks ago I was having one of these very sessions and yet another idea came to mind...something that I had never attempted while bouldering outdoors.  I decided to omit the traditional problems and instead link some insanely long and sustained rock climbs.  The first "extended" traverse that came to mind was a complete lap around all four sides of the Lookout Boulder at Nine Corner Lake.  In the past I had always warmed up on the Lookout, Traverse (V4) on the side of the boulder where the warm-up classic Stairs (V0) is.  So that took care of being familiar with one of the four sides.  After an hour or so of brushing new holds to utilize in the mega traverse and rehearsing the climbing sequence; I had figured out the entire traverse.  All together, this traverse was over 100 linear feet of climbing with upwards of 70 hand movements.  There was one distinct crux near the boulder problem Cherokee Challenge (V4) while the remainder of the climbing wasn't all too difficult, while decent resting positions and breaks between the more sustained climbing.  I would wager that the full extended traverse is around the V6/7 mark.

  The second mega traverse is actually a linkup between a handful of separate boulders but climbing continues between the erratic's without ever stepping off of the rock and touching the ground.  This traverse sit starts as Pop or Drop (V7) and continues left across the entire southern face of the Fortress Boulder, across the Dagger Boulder, and finishes up the impression face of Tower of Power (V2).  This mega traverse consisted of over 50 linear feet of climbing, 25 vertical feet of climbing up the Tower Boulder and had upwards of 55 hand movements.  These traverses are something completely unique to the Nine Corner Lake Boulders and take on a totally different approach/perspective to Adirondack Bouldering.  I do recall reading in the past however, that Jim Belcer used to do similar traverses and linkups back in the early 1990's at the McKenzie Pond Boulders after being introduced to the concept while bouldering over in Fontainbleau, France.

  So I hope you enjoy this unique video...take it for what it is worth and maybe give these mega traverses a shot nice time you are in the forest and are looking for something new to try!!!

Media Update: 


  1. Phase 2 update please

  2. I'd love to read an update on your training when you've got it. Happy climbing!