Mr. Smiley

Mr. Smiley
Mr. Smiley- V5 at Moss Island

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Hogwart's...and a few project's


The first picture shows a nice slightly overhang face with decent crimp edges which lead to a nice topout at about 15'.  The crux for me revolves around matching on a poor crimp edge after the sit start and then making a long lock off to good incut holds about 3' away.  All said and done, from the sit start to the top, this problem could fall in the V8-V10 range.

The second picture shows the overhang arete/face from the video posted below.  This climbs really well and we were surprised when we determined that the left hand sidepulls did have to come into play.  At first glance, this appeared to be an easy lip/arete traverse, but we could get off the ground until we used the left hand sidepulls.  Lots of core tension needed on the "Truffle Shuffle".
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3 comments:

  1. WeekendBoulderingMay 17, 2011 at 4:13 PM

    That one crimp problem you mentioned stuck out a lot to me. Now that its clean, the game has definitely changed. Is the crux the top-out?

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  2. SouthernADKMay 17, 2011 at 9:18 PM

    No...the topout is pretty easy. The crux is the first three moves. Sit start isn't bad but the more time you spend adjusting on the edge you have to match for the big lock off- the more trouble you get into.

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  3. SouthernADKMay 26, 2011 at 9:12 AM

    Murph nabbed the sit start FA to the crimpy problem described above on Sunday May 22. The previous day I was in the woods climbing with Pooler, Sully, and Banta and worked out all of the moves, linking the problem twice from starting two moves in matched on the long edge rail. For me, the low sit start to get to this point was extremely difficult not to dab on the boulder directly beneath the edge rail. NICE send Murphy! Felt pretty difficult overall.

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