Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Stables Boulder: After Work Session

The "Stables Boulder" is a small outcrop along the Skidmore Mountain Bike Trails at the intersection of Clinton and Daniels Rd. in Saratoga Springs NY.  The climbs are limited but the close proximity to my office makes it convienient for quick sessions after work.  The clean/textured rock will definately keep my skin in check thoughout the summer months...below is a video clip highlighting a nice V7ish boulder problem and a really difficult line on the right hand side of the outcrop.  I have not yet stuck the crux move (the dynamic move shown at the end of the video)...feels pretty difficult especially once you add the (3) moves to get into the crux move from the sit start.

9 comments:

  1. fun crimp problem man, i also did a longer traverse from the right into it, not sure if it had been done

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  2. longer traverse from the right or from the left of where I started? I recall holds to the left but not too much to the right?

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  3. right of that first problem are some good holds makes it a bit harder for sure

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  4. Not to mention the v7 top out of that last problem, I got to the mantle 6 times from the sit, last visit, but to no avail.

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  5. I was wondering what your beta was? Do you make a similar dynamic move to that half pad edge or is there something I am missing? Thanks for the posts!

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  6. Commander: Kippy and I did both those problems back when pumps and I were living in the qby. The last problem you show in the video was a bit harder than the first.

    Per your question - I think you are missing something as I remember that problem not having such a dynamic move

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  7. I worked this thing for a long time and sent in the spring finally. Sit start low and work up to the pinch where you were. Don't dyno to the sloper, instead move off the crappy right hand crimp and use the crack on the left as a sloper. Your index finger will catch in it like a finger lock and it feels decent, match on the right open hand sloper thing, move right hand to a good crimp, hike those feet up, and push for sloping edge at the top. Match, and engage in the crux... Top out is definitely the crux. It's a real gem of a line when it goes down. It's supposed to be v8, which feels about right in good conditions.

    Give me a shout if you want some info on the place, I live on Broadway in town and have a few other lines out there that I have been working, including a left variation of the first line in your video. I wish someone could come up with some names for this stuff... FA's anyone?

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  8. Hey, im visiting saratoga springs this week, and i like to try to climb that bolder very much,
    if its not to hard can you plese pin point on google maps the location of the bolder or give me some directions to get there from the intersection of Clinton and Daniels Rd.

    also can you please advise me on any other cool spots in the area.

    Thanks
    Saimon

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  9. Simo,
    I am not sure if you will be able to climb on this boulder or even get to it this time of year. The parking area is right at the intersection of Clinton and Daniels (it is a pull off parking area for mountain bike users). From the parking area, you simple follow the mountain bike trail into the woods, passing the stables on your right. Shortly after the stables, the trail breaks to the left into the woods. Follow the trail to the left and the boulder will be reached in roughly 5 mins and will be on the right side of the trail. I would assume that it is covered in snow and not climbable currently. We have been snowed out for the past few weeks...deterring any outdoor climbing. I would recommend "The Edge" in Halfmoon, NY roughly 25 min. from Saratoga south on I87. It is a cool new indoor gym with a freestanding bouldering and nice climbing walls both for toprope and lead climbing. Good luck!

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