Friday, December 2, 2011

December 1, 2011

Last night, Mitch Hoffman and I capitalized on the prime fall climbing conditions with an after work session at Nine Corners Lake.  The sky was clear, the stars were full and bright, the air was crisp, and the boulders were dry.  I had a feeling the entire hike into the boulder field that something epic was about to happen.  I had been working out the sequence to the original "Nick Stoner" problem over the past few weeks and after successfully doing every move in isolation last week, I knew that it was only a matter of time, conditions, and skin.

"Nick Stoner"is the right leaning overhanging arete in the background

"Nick Stoner"is the right leaning overhanging arete in the background

The intro moves of "Nick Stoner"

Here is the full boulder problem...

Analyizing the upper crux sequence...daydreaming about the send


  1. Way to go Jut! Nice to see a local finally pull down the elusive Nick Stoner! I loved all the post-send celebration too, great energy.

    Congrats buddy!

  2. Thanks Andrew! Words cannot even describe how excited I was when I topped out Nick Stoner last night around 9:30pm on a beautiful fall night. When I was putting together the video afterwords, I just had to leave in the celebration banter...I was hoping people would get a kick out of it! Getting out this weekend???

  3. How do you feel about it now that it's sent? Confirm the V10 grade? Hardest line you've ever done or comparable to anything else?

    I'm absolutely climbing this weekend! No idea where though. I'm psyched on some projects in GB and the Gunks but at the same time I feel like I should take advantage of the north country while I still can. I'd also really like to see Potters before it gets snowed in (so if you happen to head out there anytime soon let me know).

    Unfortunately I have class tomorrow, so it won't be until Sunday that I climb.

  4. Man...grading is difficult and to the best of my knowledge, this boulder problem has gone unrepeated since Tommy Durant's FA years ago.

    Here are some mof my thoughts; individual moves on the original "Nick Stoner" were more physically demanding than the other two "Nick Stoner" variations but the problems ends with a V0 crack climb so it eases up there.

    "The Legend of D.B." aka "Nick Stoner Direct" does all of the same lower crux moves as "Nick Stoner" then has a low percentage V5/6 redpoint crux topout with a great standing rest inbetween in some may claim it is harder (waiting for more ascents and consensus). For me, the original "Nick Stoner" send required full skin, a fully rested core and muscles, and a high tolerance for pain from the sharp crimps. I sent the climb in prime conditions so it is hard to say how hard it is...everything was spot on.

    Put it this way, the only other climb I have personally done that I feel is harder than "Nick Stoner" was the stand to "Bromance" with "Whip Tide" coming in a close second. Keep in mind, both of these climbs were done when the conditions were not as ideal as they were last night.

    Bouldering grades are all suspect and highly dependent on the individual climber. It was a battle for me though in the end and I am elated to have done it! So Psyched!

  5. nice work command center! Made it look smoooooth fool