Banta and I headed back to to Snowy Mountain early last week to take advantage of the nice weather and to hopefully tick off some of our current projects. The conditions were prime...sunny and upper 70's, no bugs yet, and bone dry rock. We were able to repeat some classics, Banta wrote off a project of his "Never Been to Hueco", while I was able to finally link together the stand start to "Salamander" as well as establish another variation off of the "Mr. Tumnus" boulder problems.
Midday we took a short hike as a means of active rest and found a bunch of rock and short cliff bands in the immediate area. Nothing was as amazing as the original set of boulders, but a few new lines were discovered and a rad 30' tall, 150' long slightly overhanging section of rock was discovered. Some serious highballs are possible, or perhaps some short, powerful sport routes. Time will tell, time will tell.
Media Update:
I like the high quality better. Makes the climbs look so much more amazing!
ReplyDeleteDigging the soundtrack! Also good on you guys for some sweet sweet sends... I gotta seal the deal on "never been" myself.
ReplyDeleteThe HD looks really nice and crisp! Looking forward to more updates
ReplyDeleteTyler, Aaron, Ben, and I went up to that wall and the two boulders beneath it last winter. The boulder closest to the trail appeared to have one sick line if I do recall.
ReplyDeleteSalamader Slayer is a great line that could be one of the better compression climbs in the dacks. Who has beta on Brian Kim's possible ascent?
ReplyDeleteI have done all the moves starting from the edge and tossing into the huecos. It's no harder than V9 from the edge start if you can span into the Hueco, not even close to v11. The sit farther right could be 10 or 11.
I heard Kippy did this a long time ago from the edge start and called it an 8, which I think is a pretty stout grade. Regardless, salamander is awesome. Nice work Jut.
Glad to see "Mr. Tumnus goes for a ride" get more press. It's my second favorite 8 in the dacks next to Flux.
Tyler
Tyler,
ReplyDeleteI also heard that Brian Kim FA'd the sit into this line but never knew the beta. Buzz and Fran brought Matt Bosley up there and he repeated the sit start pretty quickly. Apparently, he started as low as possible on the arete using poor slopers to pull off the ground and make a LH shouldery move to the starting edge/jug. He then matched and did the rest of the climb. How do you do the first move from the edge? I am about 6" short of the LH that I start on in the video. The climb is sick regardless...this past Saturday did the stand into Never Left as another variation. Felt a but harder at the end.
Nice, I figured that combo would be the next logical progression. I was there when Bosley sent it. He did do it quite quickly, but he is crazy strong, so I had no idea how hard the overall link would be.
ReplyDeleteTo do the first move from the edge, I smear a left foot on a tiny dimple, take a little swing and launch for the jugs in the hueco. My feet cut sometimes. I just huck the heel back on. It's a height limited move, no question there. At 6 2 I'm built for it. From there I was moving the same way you did, but went entirely into the hueco area after the second slap. Bosley actually got a knee bar in there to rest up before the dyno. Hope that helps. Again, I didn't send it yet, but am psyched to get back there and try to link up all the sections.
Glad to see you are back out in that part of the dacks. Awesome lines and more potential up there as JP mentioned.
Tyler