Another Adirondack GEM has been Established...

Kennith D. Murphy doing what he does best...establishing some of the most aesthetic and difficult boulder problems within the "blue line" of the Adirondack State Park!  This long and steep line has seen attempts ever since the "Gnar Wall" was discovered by J.P. Whitehead back around 2009 and was recently climbed cleanly by Murph himself.

Link to some of the coverage from Climberism.com: http://www.climberism.com/ken-murphy-take-down-gnar-wall-project/

Green Lake Boulders: Live Free or Die

A recent bouldering session at the Green Lake boulders got me psyched to put together this video of "Live Free or Die" that I filmed back in early April.  This boulder problem is one of my all time favorites and should not be missed if you are in the Caroga Lake region.  The Green Lake boulders are only a couple hundred yards from the Cane Mountain Trailhead on Green Lake Rd. and there are over 30 boulder problems (counting the varaitions) on two large glacial erratics.

Recently I got to spot a good friend, Andrew Cieply as he worked out the beta on the problem and came very close to the send.  Watching him dial in the moves and sequence, I am confident that on his next visit he will be topping out "Live Free or Die".

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Adirondack Bouldering Recon: Flatrock Mountain

This past weekend as I entered my 30th year on the marvelous planet earth, my main man Johnny Sullivan and I headed out to Old Forge to check out a bouldering area we both had never been to; Flatrock Mountain.  I have been asking around for the past year or so about this area trying to get people's overall impressions, some beta on the existing problems, and to gauge if there was any potential for some difficult boulder problems.  The feedback I recieved was mixed, to say the least but the area was only 60 miles from my house and because there were estbalished boulder problems on land accessible to the public, it definitely was a candidate for the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook.

So after the journey to western New York, my overall impression of the area is as follows:

1. The rock quality is good but the boulders are not that impressive or abundant (at least at the area by Flatrock Mountain).
2. There are three massive boulders down in a low lying area known locally as "The Swamp" that looked like they would have the best boulder problems on them.  I mean these boulders were VERY large and featured but due to their location (surrounded by standing water), they will only be climbable later in the summer and early fall as things dry up significantly.
3. If you're in the area, definitely get a session in on the Splitrock Boulder.  This boulder is right next to the parking area and is visible from the road.
4. There were a handful of lowball problems that were not difficult nor inspiring.
5. The area is probably a 1 out of 5 for bouldering areas, probably a 3 out of 5 if the Swamp Area were dry and you could climb on those three massive boulders.  I would wager that once climbing could be had on those boulders, an additional 20-30 problems could be established.

Regardless of the minor disappointment, Johhny and I had a nice time out there and definitely gave it hell.  We climbed as many of the established problems as we could to confirm grades and I think I was even able to send two lingering projects on the Splitrock Boulder.  One of these problems, Santa Maria is of very high quality and should not be overlooked if you do visit.

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The Skidmore Stables Boulder and Some Serious Progress on a Personal Project

I'll keep it short and sweet...Sullivan and I had an awesome session at the Skidmore College "Stables Boulder" this week after work.  We were able to do a bunch of repeats and somehow I was able to finally figure out the crux move on what I think is the hardest boulder problem there (I've heard the grade V8 from others, but after 6 years of attempts and no send yet I am lead to believe that it is harder; maybe V8 from the stand start alone).  I was able to send the line from the stand start after figuring out some new beta and fell on the upper mantle from the sit start as darkness was falling.  I am hoping for one more cool/dry evening before the mosquitoes and black flies overtake that area so I can give it another solid effort...

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Nine Corners Lake: Saccharine Boulder Session

Here are some pictures from a recent SAC crew bouldering session at the infamous (at least in my opinion) Adirondack bouldering location known as Nine Corners Lake. There was only a brief window to climb in-between bouts of rain, but we were able to sneak in a pretty productive session on the Saccharine Boulder.

Banta was damn close to sending Instant Yoga...with a bit more strength in his knee that underwent surgery last year he will undoubtedly sent this problem! Pooler tried harder at bouldering than I have seen in the past two-three years. I mean honestly, the dude was throwing out deets and dahts and was refusing to give up on everything we tried! Maybe even tore a flapper or two or perhaps split a fingertip in the process. Great to see him back in action and highly motivating for sure. Sullivan was his typical self- trying hard and keeping the crew amped!!!


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