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Never Been to Hueco- V7
Tomas Donoso photograph scanned from Rock and Ice
Mr. Smiley
Mr. Smiley- V5 at Moss Island
Thursday, September 24, 2015
New Boulder Problem at the Green Lake Boulders
This problem came to life after a recent visit to the boulders to confirm some problem descriptions and grades. It involves a traverse of the entire west-facing wall on the Rookie Boulder. After the tricky sit start moves, there are an additional 20 or so hand movements on some small crimps and edges. Not a bad addition to the existing problems and a great line to work on your climbing endurance. I ended up naming it Green Mile (V6) because of the length of the climb. If you get out there and try it, please let me know what you think!
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Media Update:
Tuesday, September 22, 2015
Thorazine Video Edit
Just an area classic and an excellent boulder problem. Sending this problem numerous times in the same day for the video compilation sparks an excitement level for the fall season that I cannot describe in words. I am anxiously waiting for some time off of work in October and the completion of the Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook so I can focus 100% on some lingering personal projects that I have at the local boulder fields.
Will all of the summer training pay off? Can I finally break into that elusive double-digit boulder problem realm? Can I climb multiple days on outdoors at my maximum level and avoid injuries? Will some of these projects finally see an ascent?
Only time will tell, and that time is quickly approaching. I know that I am psyched, really psyched and I hope everyone else is as excited as I am!
Happy Climbing...
Media Update:
Will all of the summer training pay off? Can I finally break into that elusive double-digit boulder problem realm? Can I climb multiple days on outdoors at my maximum level and avoid injuries? Will some of these projects finally see an ascent?
Only time will tell, and that time is quickly approaching. I know that I am psyched, really psyched and I hope everyone else is as excited as I am!
Happy Climbing...
Media Update:
Monday, September 14, 2015
Whip Tide (V9)
I established Whip Tide (V9) back on September 10, 2011 when I hosted the first ever outdoor bouldering competition at Nine Corner Lake in Caroga Lake, New York. Prior to the competition, I had been projecting the boulder problem for a couple of weeks; battling the late summer conditions and the intricacies of the movements which kept shutting me down on the send.
After getting the first ascent on the competition day, I returned the following weekend and was able to repeat Whip Tide (V9) on my first try of the day. After 2011, the boulder problem sat there unrepeated. I showed a handful of visiting climbers the line two years ago and they were all in agreement that it was one of the best problems that they tried at Nine Corner Lake. There opinion meant a lot to me because I too had always thought that it was a very special problem, with nice holds, awesome movements, and difficult climbing overall.
A couple of weeks ago, I began to rework the movements on Whip Tide (V9). On each bouldering session on the Wave Boulder, I was able to send Whip Tide, Stand (V7) pretty easily and on my first try each day. The full link from the sit start was however proving to be a difficult task! On Friday September 11, 2015 I returned to Nine Corner Lake with my mind set on finally repeating this problem. The temperatures had finally fallen into the 70's and on this particular day, the humidity was only at 40%. After a long warm up routine, I made the short hike back to the Wave Boulder and was able to send Whip Tide cleanly from the sit start in only a half hour or so. All of the holds felt better than they had in previous weeks and the lower sit start moves felt easier than ever. What a difference good climbing conditions make in this game of bouldering.
I hope you enjoy the video. Also, if you have done this problem please let me know what you think the difficulty level is. I have seen numerous people on it but have yet to witness a repeat...even from the stand start.
Happy Climbing!
Media Update:
After getting the first ascent on the competition day, I returned the following weekend and was able to repeat Whip Tide (V9) on my first try of the day. After 2011, the boulder problem sat there unrepeated. I showed a handful of visiting climbers the line two years ago and they were all in agreement that it was one of the best problems that they tried at Nine Corner Lake. There opinion meant a lot to me because I too had always thought that it was a very special problem, with nice holds, awesome movements, and difficult climbing overall.
A couple of weeks ago, I began to rework the movements on Whip Tide (V9). On each bouldering session on the Wave Boulder, I was able to send Whip Tide, Stand (V7) pretty easily and on my first try each day. The full link from the sit start was however proving to be a difficult task! On Friday September 11, 2015 I returned to Nine Corner Lake with my mind set on finally repeating this problem. The temperatures had finally fallen into the 70's and on this particular day, the humidity was only at 40%. After a long warm up routine, I made the short hike back to the Wave Boulder and was able to send Whip Tide cleanly from the sit start in only a half hour or so. All of the holds felt better than they had in previous weeks and the lower sit start moves felt easier than ever. What a difference good climbing conditions make in this game of bouldering.
I hope you enjoy the video. Also, if you have done this problem please let me know what you think the difficulty level is. I have seen numerous people on it but have yet to witness a repeat...even from the stand start.
Happy Climbing!
Media Update:
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