Monday, February 11, 2013

Some New Boulders...

Undisclosed area for the time being, but just wanted to prove to everyone that the crew is on the hunt for new bouldering areas in the Adirondack Park!  This area is on state land, has legit access and will have a few high quality boulder problems.  Deet, daht.  To my knowledge, nobody has ever climbed on these boulders.

Media Update:

20' tall boulder
 

Same 20' tall boulder, different side

20' tall boulder with cool dihedral feature

12' tall twin arete

Beautiful orange boulder, sharp arete will be hard!

20' tall orange face with ripples and dimples

Short 10' tall overhanging wall

Massive 30' tall boulder.  Anything done here will be very dificult!

This is the gem boulder.  Left arete will be 5 stars!

A better view of the gem arete

And a close up of the actual holds

Nice steep outcrop by the arete boulder

Something currently lives under this boulder (note the trail in the snow leading inside!) 
Once developed, this boulder could have 10 or more boulder problems on it!

16 comments:

  1. If these rigs are on state land and there is ample parking, why would you not share where they are? Seems a bit odd. Or are you and your friends driven by getting the FA on problems?

    I really hope that is not the case as you seem to be a pretty motivated individual who cares about climbing.

    Leaving the FA ego at the door is the best for all...



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    1. First off, I wanted to verify that there in fact on state land. Second off, I don't spend the limited free time that I have exploring for new cliffs and boulders to report back to the masses so they can go out and snag all of the "gems" without putting in any effort. Putting up first ascents for me has nothing to do with the ego, it is all about the experience of finding, cleaning and establishing a climb that nobody has done yet. And yes, I am personally driven by establishing first ascents as is evident all over the southern adirondacks. If you don't like what you see on the blog, go troll elsewhere on the internet punk. If you're so adamant with your opinion, why not login and post a comment under your name?

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    2. Anonymous- if you're so interested in potential new bouldering areas, i'll give you a great tip. There is potential for over a hundred boulder problems in the talus along Rt. 73 in Keene Valley, NY near the Round Pond trailhead and Chapel Pond. Do us all a favor and begin the daunting task of "developing" the area. Word of caution, this area has only seen limited bouldering activity in the past, so many of the things that you may climb could be first ascents...if you're okay with that and it won't ruin your ego.

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  2. And for the record, after further review of county tax maps, these boulders are not on state land, so their location will not be made public.

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  3. Anonymous- did you try to contact Jut before you posted your lame comment? I know that in the past, he has never refused to share inside knowledge as to where new cliffs or boulders were located if somebody posed the question. "Seems a bit odd" that you would use his blog to vent your frustrations instead of going right to the source. If nobody had a desire to establish first ascents, how would they come about? Quick question, how many new climbing areas have you discovered and shared with the local climbing community is the past decade? My guess is that you rely solely on the hard work and dedication of others to find newness...

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  4. I will go along with Justin on this one. Disregarding the fact of whether they are on state land or not, he is right in keeping the boulders private. Based on my experience at Lost T, the Annex and Pinnacle, as soon as you clean a cliff and develop a path to it, the climbers and guide book authors come running out to do their first ascents, satisfy their egos and get their name in the guide book. Then they criticize what you did and, in the case of Lost T, chop the bolts. I suppose this should all be ignored, but it is very disheartening. Climbing is a sick (not quite) sport. In the mountain bike world we all worked together to build trails and didn't worry about who was the first to ride it without dabbing. But in climbing the only thing that counts is who does the first ascent, which brings out the worst in everybody, including me. Any new cliffs that Arietta climbing finds in the southern adk's are going to be kept private until they are completely done. Justin's behavoir is appropriate to the situation.

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  5. Rumor has it Murph has some new bouldering area he is keeping secret as well? I heard it's next level.... Let us in so we can get all the FA"s and who cares about all the hard work you put in. I know Murph has spent hundreds of hrs on topo maps and hiking in the wood for new areas. Now after all the hard work something good is found, and it should be shared with the masses right away? Nobody wants to put in any real work just reap the benefits of others. Developing and finding new areas entails a massive amount of time and work. If someone is willing to put in that work they have every right to keep the place secret. If you have a problem with that get out there, hike and find your own area, or keep your mouth shut.

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    1. Rest assured, if the new areas that we are finding turn out to be publically accessible and the rock quality is good and is producing rock climbs...the climbing community will be informed of there where abouts. That information might come after a few plumb lines are climbed, but hey we put in all of the hard work for a reason and that reason is to develop new rock climbs. If people weren't looking for new climbs, nothing would get developed!

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  6. Good finds, awesome work! 2013 is going to be a BIG year for the Daks.

    I would also like to add that the process for finding/developing new areas is obviously huge undertaking. For above commenter with the unnecessary attitude; think about the time invested searching/finding and validating a climbing area. The amount of gas money and time spent driving out there to look for rocks to be disappointed. Its not like its an easy thing. Think about the amount of hours spent cleaning lines. Be patient, let the people who find and develop do their thing, they deserve to enjoy the rewards for their efforts. Show a little respect.

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    1. Brian, thanks for your input. I definately think that people take for granted how much effort is put in by the developer(s) of new climbing areas. I am very interested to see what you guys have been working on in PA!

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  7. I will deff say my bit here! I am Frankly sick of freezing my balls off searhing for these gems to get guff about Fa's. Be about it or dont!@#$% Ron Manning

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    1. I appreciate you freezing your balls off! That means you are putting in the effort that many people are too lazy to do...

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  8. I Think it's ridiculous that anyone could try to come down on Justin, murph, or anyone else that finds a new climbing area. Ever since the first time I met those guys i have felt welcomed, and supported as both a climber and a person. They go out ad do their thing as hve a great time doing it. If you want to discover new boulders and put up FA's then go find your own lines, clean them, figure them out, and send them!

    Cimbing has always been an activity where I felt like I was able to get away from everyday drama and enjoy the outdoors while still challenging myself in various ways. Now it feels like that same drama is present out in the boulder fields where I once felt at peace... You can't sit around and hate on other people's hard efforts and then expect them to roll out a red carpet and escort you to the only "reward" that a developer really enjoys...

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    1. Brilliantly stated my friend, brilliant! My intention is never to keep areas "secret" from the larger climbing community, but my close friends and I are naturally going to climb at new areas a handful of times before we reveal to the masses where there are located. I mean, who wouldn't?

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  9. All of these updates have me psyched for this upcoming ADK climbing season and Thacher Park's Potential. I've been scoping out several low quality bouldering areas in rensselaer county: Poestenkill, Westsand Lake, East Nassau, Stephentown. Mosty private land, where the owners have allowed me to search around and climb v0-v4 problems. There is potential for hard lines in Stephentown that i personally cant develope. Ill send you some exact directions if your interested. Keep up the great work, our generation's climbing community needs more individuals like yourself.

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    1. Luke- thanks for the post man and i'm psyched that you are also out exploring for some new climbing areas! I am definately interested in this "Stephentown" area...let me know what you can, thanks.

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