Element Climbing Holds

Here are the cimbing hold sets that I carved this year for Element Climbing.  The company owner has put a hault on any new climbing hold sets for the remainder of the calender year so they can focus on mass producing holds to fulfill large orders.  Element Climbing is on the top of the climbing hold game and it has been an honor working with them thus far.

I am anxious for the new year and the opportunity to continue shaping for Element Climbing.

(Note:  I took the liberty of pre-drilling my sets of the holds so I can use them as screw on holds if needed on my home wall...only the hydrogen sets are screw on sets as sold by Element Climbing)

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Core Pinches

Core Slopers

Core Pockets

 

Core Jugs

 

Entropy Jugs

Mitchondria Pinches

Entropy Ledges

Uranium Crimps

Hydrogen Rails

Hydrogen Jugs

Hydrogen Chips

Hydrogen Pockets

 

J. Sanford's 2012 Element Climbing Hold Sets

 

Epic Fall Session at Snowy Mountain

Banta and I left Johnstown at 6:30am on Sunday morning to ensure that we would be getting in a full day of climbing at the Snowy Mountain Boulders.  As we transferred his gear into my jeep for the 1.5 hr carpool, it was still pouring rain but we opted to stick to our gam plan and give Snowy Mtn. a shot.

As we got further and further north, the rain was letting up and the sun was trying its' best to break through the clouds...were we going to finally catch a break and get some decent climbing conditions this fall? 

We got to the trailhead at 8:00am, the rain had stopped but everything was still soaked.  Our optimism was high because we have personally seen the boulders at Snowy dry up in a matter of hours with the right combination of sun and wind.  As we approached the boulders, they were still a bit saturated but it was evident that it was going to be climable really soon...Sully was en route as well and not far behind us.

When we finally get some decent fall conditions, this is what happens.

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"Absolute Zero" at Nine Corners Lake

A contived boulder problem on the cave boulder up at the Nine Corners Lake Boulders.  If you can get over the fact that you are eliminating a jug rail during the crux sequence at the halfway point of the traverse, the climb can be really fun and challenging. 

The climb is long and pumpy, the moves are taxing and difficult and the traverse allows you to move across the entire cave boulder from left to right.  The original "Absolute Zero" traverse ended by topping out through the "Psychsomatic" finish.  This finishing point never really made sense to me other than the fact that it was a top out for a different boulder problem.  I feel that the full traverse will eventually be the preferred finish for this rock climb.  Like I said, if you can get over the contrived nature of the climb, it is one that should definatley make it onto your tick list.

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Green Lake Boulders and a quick circuit

Quick video of some of the classic lines on the Green Lake Boulders.  Enjoy

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The Italian Butterfly: Tazio II Biondo

These training techniques are some of the most impressive I have ever seen.  I feel like anyone with this type of finger strength should hands down be climbing at the top level worldwide.

Enjoy the show from the "Italian Butterfly"

Second Ascent - "Buck Fever"- 5.12c

This route consumed my climbing efforts for many weekends throughout the summer and early fall.  Week after week we would venture into the cliff to find the bottom of the route seeping from prior rainfall.  Thanks to the patience of the SAC climbing crew and their continued psych, I was finally able to finally  redpoint Buck Fever on Saturday September 15, 2012.  This send coming six weeks after falling at the very top of the route in typical "punter" fashion.

Ken Murphy snagged the first ascent (as a lead route) on Buck Fever back on July 21st.  Since the first ascent, two holds have broken on the route and in my opinion have changed the difficulty of the climb significantly.  What was initially considered a 5.12b is now more likely a hard 5.12c, maybe even 5.12d as it is much more demanding and pumpy as compared to "Push"- 5.12c on the neighboring Good Luck Lake Cliffs.

Buck Fever

Access Fund's "Adopt-a-Crag" Event This Saturday @ Nine Corners

Never been to Nine Corners Before?  Below is a link to one of my blog pages that has a continually growing archive of bouldering videos at Nine Corners Lake...check it out, get psyched and come check it out!!!

Nine Corners Lake Video Archive

Come join us locals at Nine Corners Lake in Caroga Lake, NY this Saturday October 20th from 8am until darkness falls as we help one another clean up misc. trash on the approach trail, around the NYSDEC designated campsites on Nine Corners Lake and any other debris that we might encounter. We will also be relocating dead and down trees that came down during last year's Hurricane Irene.

Come out, lend a hand, give each other a spot as we clean and climb for an entire day. Meet some locals, get a personal tour of the established boulder field, check out some long standing projects, find some new projects, enjoy the scenery and most of all just have fun!

Prizes will be given away randomly as a way to say thanks for your time and help. I have a box of gear from the Access Fund and from Organic Climbing to unload, so bring the hype and hopefully i'll see you there, DEET!

 

 

Confirming Some More ADK Bouldering Destiny

KiPpy was right, man was he right! 

The talus fields encompassing Round Pond, Chapel Pond and the adjacent stretch of Route 73 through Keene Valley offer more new bouldering potential than I have seen yet in the Adirondack Park.  Murph, Banta and I got to explore them personally a few weekends back and were blown away but what we saw.  Looking at the aerial images below, it is pretty clear that we didn't even scratch the surface!  This is really exciting!!!  Projects here we come...



Fall Session at Farley Ledge, MA

 

 

 

 



"Ocean of Air"- V8

Here is a great boulder problem at Great Barrington Mass. known as "Ocean of Air".  I believe it was established in the fall of 2010 by a local; Greg Locker.  Either way, it is a great pure boulder problem in one of my favorite New England bouldering areas.  I took a thrilling "big" fall but was able to keep it together for a send later in the day.

Brad- thanks for the spotting and Banta thanks for the footage!

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