Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Moss Island...

As promised, here is the first video update from this past weekend.  After the rain died down on Saturday afternoon and I had finished my latest pinch set of climbing hold protoypes, I went to Moss Island to meet up with Murph and his friend K.P.  The afternoon session lasted into the shadows of the evening and numerous highball problems were done by the group along with an "X" rated lead climb of the notorious "Fred P".  Filming Murph lead this climb was extremely inspiring...to witness first-hand that level of mental focus and control was absolutely awesome.  Good on ya' mate!

Monday, June 27, 2011

Weekend Update...

Saturday started out on the rough side.  Showers dissipated only to return periodically through much of the day.  I spent numerous hours carving climbing hold prototypes for an up and coming climbing hold company out of Texas.  The pinch hold set can be seen below.






Late afternoon however, the doppler showed no more storms around Little Falls and I heard rumors that he who shall not be named might be in the vicinity.  It was worth the drive anyday!  Saturday turned into a highball session and "X" rated lead climbing session at Little Falls with Murph and a young female crusher known as K.P.; followed by a decent bouldering session at Nine Cornered Lake on Sunday despite the lingering dampness from all of the rain we have endured.  Pictures and videos of both days to follow.  Stay tuned and as always, keep it real....


 

Friday, June 24, 2011

Some Rope Climbs worth mentioning...

After an indoor session last night at Rocksport in Queensbury I began browsing some of my older pictures and videos of trad and sport climbing in and around the southern adirondacks.  Below are some images of climbs that stood out from last season.  I am anxious to start working some lines that I have left untouched over the years...some lofty goals have been set for this calender year!

"Push"- 5.12c at Good Luck Cliffs:  Caroga Lake, NY

 "Parthenope"- 5.11d at Lost T Cliff:  Arietta, NY


 "Skid Row"- 5.11a at Shanty Cliffs


 "Terapia"-5.12a at Lost Hunters Cliff:  Arietta, NY

"Black Arete"- 5.13a in Little Falls, NY


Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Weekend Plans...

Hopefully the forcasted rain for the remainder of this week doesn't affect the routes at Otter Lake.  I am pretty excited to leave the crash pads at home and tie into the sharp end on some of the routes I developed last spring/summer with some friends.

 Also, cannot wait to get back on this boulder problem that sits at the base of the Otter Lake Cliff!  It hasn't seen any action (that I know of ) since I put the line up last year.  It is a quality boulder problem in my opinion and worth carrying the crash pads into the crag as well.


Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Spring Session at Nine...

I put together a quick video from an early April climbing session at Nine Cornered Lake to keep the psych levels up.  Unlike the past few years, the snow stuck around into the third week of April this spring...quite depression at the time, but looking back on the footage, the setting was pretty nice.  This years Southern Adirondack Climbing Festival is going to be held in the Caroga Lake Region so I am trying to work with the event organizers to host an outdoor bouldering competition.  We will see what can be arranged...

Monday, June 13, 2011

Carving new climbing holds...

This past weekend was nothing but rain.  In between training sessions on my home wall I carved some foam prototypes for some new climbing hold sets.  This particular set is a series of sloping edges created for walls 0-30 degrees overhanging.  I am excited to make the molds and pour the final product.  I will post pictures of the holds sometime next week.  On a positive note, the weather might hold off for some after work sessions, pysched!




Friday, June 10, 2011

Mountain Man...

Just wanted to throw a shout out to some of the local climbing crew members when they were enduring their "Mountain Man" appearances.



Murph squeezing hard on "Horsepower" down in the dirty dirt:  HP40 circa 2006



Pooler man-handling some grips up at the local Nine Cornered Lake: Circa 2008


Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Stables Boulder: After Work Session

The "Stables Boulder" is a small outcrop along the Skidmore Mountain Bike Trails at the intersection of Clinton and Daniels Rd. in Saratoga Springs NY.  The climbs are limited but the close proximity to my office makes it convienient for quick sessions after work.  The clean/textured rock will definately keep my skin in check thoughout the summer months...below is a video clip highlighting a nice V7ish boulder problem and a really difficult line on the right hand side of the outcrop.  I have not yet stuck the crux move (the dynamic move shown at the end of the video)...feels pretty difficult especially once you add the (3) moves to get into the crux move from the sit start.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

A Pottersville Sneak Peak...

Below is a short video clip highlighting some of boulder problems in Pottersville, NY.  More to come in the near future.  Stay tuned for updates of new boulder problems, projects, and development efforts.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Visitors from Vermont...

Previous weekend climbing plans were changed last minute when I recieved a text message from a good friend I hadn't had the chance to climb with in months.  The notorious duo (Strazz and the Pumps herslf) from Bolton VT wanted to check out all of the hype in Pottersville before a departure to the "land down under". News of their anticipated visit was so electrifying that it even peaked the interest of one of the adirondacks most elusive bouldering strongmen who also made the trek to scope out potential problems, decyfer beta, keep everyone psyched, and ration some sweet, sweet baked goods.

Great session guys, looking forward to the next one already!  Here are some photos from the day.

"The Goblet of Fire"
Pictured above are the dangeous duo from VT and one of the most elusive Adk bouldering hardmen.  Being able to capture all three of these notorious Adk climbers in a single picture was quite an honor.  I debated having a viewing fee on this still image, but decided that everyone deserves to witness this greatness first hand.
 Pumpkin on "The Seeker"
 Strazza on the sandbagged "Truffle Shuffle" arete
  Me trying to wrap up "The Golden Snitch"